La région du Tigray (Ethiopie | Partie 2)
Après un passage à Axoum, je vous propose d’aller à la découverte du Tigray, région dans le nord de l’Ethiopie à la frontière érythréenne. Elle a été le siège de nombreux conflits durant la guerre Ethiopie-Erythrée et il en reste toujours des traces comme ce vestige de tank.
Un vestige de tank pas loin de la frontière érythréenne
La route entre Axoum et Mekele en passant par Abiy Addi longe de nombreuses églises et j’ai eu l’opportunité d’en visiter deux : Gebreal Wukien avant Abiy Addi et Abba Yohanni. L’intérêt de cette route est qu’elle est une alternative au circuit classique qui passe par Addigrat et Wikro et est donc très peu fréquentée. Cela se voit par l’état de la route qui est une simple piste.
Présentation de deux monastères très peu visités d’une part car interdits aux femmes (beaucoup de monastères présentent cette particularité) et d’autre part car ils sont à l’écart des circuits « touristiques » qui sont eux même peu fréquentés.
Vue depuis la montée pour Gebreal Wukien
Gebreal Wukien
L'église Gabrial Wukian
La première église, Gebrial Wukien, avant Abiy Addi ne déroge pas à la tradition locale : il s’agit d’un monastère creusé dans la roche. C’est un petit monastère avec une dizaine de moins et très isolé des routes et donc peu de visiteurs.
L’église est divisée en 3 parties : la partie commune, la partie pour la messe et le saint des saints. Inutile de préciser que je n’ai pas le droit de rentrer dans le saint des saint qui est censé contenir une copie de l’arche d’alliance.
Autre particularité : on ne peut rentrer sur le site religieux que pieds nus ! Et autant les habitants locaux sont « équipés » pour ça, autant pour nous pauvres européens c’est un peu plus dur ! Toutefois on peut garder les chaussettes mais à la fin elles ne sont plus très propres.
Les moines de Gabriel Wukian
Abba Yohanni, un monastère perché
La montée d'Abba Yohannis
Le second monastère est carrément à flanc de falaise et est un peu plus difficile à accéder. Il faut passer par un tunnel (lampe conseillé au passage !) ainsi que par des escaliers rudimentaires taillés dans le roc.
Arrivé en haut, c’est le moment de rentrer dans une église entièrement taillée dans le roc. Je suis arrivé en plein milieu d’une cérémonie mais ce n’est pas un problème, les moines m’acceptent avec joie et me laisse observer la cérémonie.
L'église Abba Yohannis
Un moine sur la "terrasse" d'Abba Yohannis
Des fresques à l'intérieur d'Abba Yohannis
L’église a de très belles peintures murales en relativement bon état ! On peut voir les 12 apôtres notamment avec Jésus (vous noterez l’influence éthiopienne surtout au niveau du visage).
Une cérémonie à Abba Yohannis
Le Tigray
Certains endroits du Tigray me font furieusement penser à Monument Valley avec les sortes de « mesas ».
Le Tigray est loin d’être un désert aride (bon c’était la fin de la saison des pluies mais ça reste vert une bonne partie de l’année). Il ne faut pas oublier que l’Ethiopie est un pays en altitude (les hauts plateaux d’Abyssinie dans le nord) et les endroits au dessous de 1500m sont rares donc automatiquement il fait moins chaud !
Deux moines qui se reposent sur leur longue canne
Cette visite permet de constater la ferveur religieuse du clergé et de manière plus générale des éthiopiens. Il existe plus de 200 églises du même type dans la seule région du Tigray ! Les pratiquants les plus zélés observent jusqu’à 258 jours de jeûne par an (on parle de jeûne carnivore je vous rassure, ils ont le droit de manger des légumes).
L’orthodoxie est la religion officielle du pays et l’islam est également très présent. Il s’agit d’un des pays avec la plus longue présence religieuse chrétienne depuis le Vième siècle et c’est un des bastions de l’orthodoxie. C’est un élément de plus qui marque la différence entre l’Ethiopie et le reste du continent (je reviendrais sur ces différences dans un futur article).
Quelques photos du Tigray pour mieux apprécier cette belle région.
Une vallée dans le Tigray
Qui a dit que l’Ethiopie est un désert où il ne pleut jamais ? Ce cliché vient surtout de la chanson des Enfoirés sur les éthiopiens qui meurent de faim et qui a laissé une impression tenance dans les esprits…
Les villages isolés ont un charme certains avec leurs habitations en pierre avec une cour intérieure.
Habitations de paysans
Ceci clôt la deuxième partie des récits sur l’Ethiopie. Qu’en pensez-vous ? Aviez-vous des croyances sur ce pays qui s’avèrent fausses ?
L’Ethiopie et plus spécifiquement la région du Tigray vous intéresse ? Profitez en pour voir les billets d’avions et l’hébergement !
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Ca à l’air sympa comme endroit à visiter. J’aime tout particulièrement le monastère creusé dans la roche. Tu es resté combien de temps là-bas?
Je suis resté en éthiopie 2 semaines, je n’avais pas le temps de prolonger le séjour :(. Je compte y revenir pour voir le sud et la vallée de l’Omo ça c’est sur !
Je découvre à l’instant ton blog et cet article m’intéresse tout particulièrement. L’Ethiopie me fascine depuis longtemps.
De nombreux sites sont interdits aux femmes? Tu en as rencontré sur ton chemin?
Excellente continuation à toi,
NowMadNow
Salut, ravi de voir que cet article te plait, l’éthiopie est un pays assez magique.
Les deux monastères que je présente sont interdits aux femmes ! Mais ils sont sur une piste à l’écart des routes touristiques. La route normale qui passe par Addigrat contient de nombreux monastères ouverts aux femmes et tout aussi superbes !
Heu, ça a l’air vraiment flippant le chemin pour aller au second monastère, non ?
C’est quand même moins dangereux que ça en a l’air et la partie à flanc de falaise n’est pas très haute, on monte déja beaucoup via des chemins classiques ! Mais il parait qu’il y a d’autres monastères carrément inaccessibles ! (je ne les ai pas tous fait, il y en a beaucoup trop !).
Avec mon vertige, je crois que ça aurait déjà suffit à mon arrêt cardiaque !!
En tout cas, le paysage est vraiment beau.
Et ce n’est qu’un aperçu de la beauté de l’Ethiopie !
Ca fait réver ces monastères!
l’Ethiopie m’attire déjà depuis un bout de temps pour les images des montagnes simien que j’en ai vu…
C’est toujours en dehors des sentiers battus qu’on découvre de jolies découvertes…
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