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Découverte de l’empire axoumite (Ethiopie | Partie 1)

Découverte de l’empire axoumite (Ethiopie | Partie 1)

 

L‘Ethiopie est un pays fascinant à tout point de vue qui mériterait d’être plus connu., il s’agit malheureusement (ou heureusement si on veut des expériences authentiques !) d’un pays complètement en dehors des circuits touristiques et qui est la victime de nombreux préjugés et clichés (les éthiopiens meurent de faim, il s’agit d’un désert et j’en passe…). D’ailleurs ces clichés sont complètements faux ! Il pleut plus dans la capitale (Addis Abeba) qu’à Dublin par exemple mais j’y reviendrais dans un futur article. Je vous propose, pour commencer, de découvrir le nord du pays et de commencer par Axoum, capitale de l’ancien empire axoumite.

L’empire axoumite :

Axoum, dans le nord de l’Éthiopie, est l’ancienne capitale de l’empire du même nom qui a duré plus de 1000 ans du Ier au XIIème siècle. Cet empire qui s’étendait jusqu’aux rives de la Mer Rouge fut une grande puissance commerciale et le premier Etat africain à battre de la monnaie. Les historiens supposent également que la Reine Saba est originaire d’Aksoum.

La ville est connue pour ses stèles qui sont parmi les plus hauts obélisques jamais érigés (le plus haut faisait 35m de haut). Il s’agit des tombes des rois de l’empire axoumite.

Il y a plus de 1000 stèles dans la région et probablement encore plus qui sont inconnues des archéologues. Même à Axoum, les fouilles archéologique commencent juste, cela est surtout du au fait que les archéologues se sont concentrées sur l’Egypte au détriment des autres anciennes civilisations.

Ces stèles ont été érigées pour permettre au souverain d’aller au paradis.

Les stèles les plus hautes

Les stèles les plus hautes

Lors des quelques années d’occupations italiennes (1936-1941), les italiens ont pris plusieurs stèles dont la plus imposante (celle de droite sur la photo). Celle-ci a été exposée à Rome après une rénovation. Cela fait seulement quelques années qu’ils ont accepté de rendre la stèle aux éthiopiens.

On peut constater sur la photo précédente que la stèle la plus à gauche est soutenue. En effet certaines stèles présentent des risques d’effondrement.

Il y a des stèles avec 3 faces taillées et d’autres avec 4. Pourquoi cette différence ? L’explication la plus probable repose dans le fait que les premières stèles ont été taillées sur 3 faces qui étaient à l’air libre avant d’être élevées tandis que les rois suivants ont voulu dépasser leurs prédécesseurs et ont du faire retourner les stèles au sol pour tailler la dernière face avant de les ériger.

Concernant l’orientation des stèles (vers quelle direction pointe la surface non taillée), de nombreuses explications sont proposées :

  • les 3 faces taillées seraient orientés suivant l’expansion de l’empire.
  • la face vierge serait face à un « démon ».

 

Des têtes de singe

Des têtes de singe

Le style axoumite est très répandu de par l’Ethiopie et facilement reconnaissable : toute sculture d’influence axoumite a ce qu’on appelle des « headmonkeys » (têtes de singes en anglais), ce sont les 5 « ronds » qu’on peut voir à droite sur la photo. C’est sans doute pour donner l’impression que ce sont des poutres pour simuler une construction réelle. D’ailleurs toutes les stèles sont taillées de manière à recréer de vrais batiments.

 

 

Un étalon

Un étalon

Il reste toujours certains objets d’époque qui ont servi à construire ces stèles comme par exemple un étalon pour mesurer les différentes longueurs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Les stèles d'Axoum

Les stèles d'Axoum

Une stèle effondrée

Une stèle effondrée

Un architecte avait vu trop grand et la stèle s’est probablement effondrée après avoir été mise debout. Ca illustre bien le fait que les concepteurs des stèles n’avaient droit qu’à un seul essai !

 

 

 

 

 

Un chat dans les ruines d'Aksum

Un chat dans les ruines d'Aksum

 

Balade à travers le site archéologique

Bien qu’il s’agisse d’un site archéologique majeur, l’endroit est encore très peu fréquenté et donne l’impression d’être la vallée des rois en Égypte au début du XXième siècle. On peut se prendre pour un archéologue de l’ancien temps quand on parcourt les tombeaux des anciens rois axoumites qui sont creusés sous les stèles.

L’entrée des tombeaux les plus imposants étaient condamnés par une énorme dalle qu’on peut voir sur la photo suivante. Toutefois les pilleurs ont été plus malins que les concepteurs de ces tombeaux et se sont bêtement contentés de creuser un trou à côté et de se servir par là.

L'entrée d'une tombe

L'entrée d'une tombe

Les tombeaux sont vides, ils ont été pillés depuis longtemps. Il s’agit d’une excursion hors du temps sans compter qu’il n’y a vraiment personne dans les alentours !

Excursions dans les tombeaux

Il est fort probable que d’ici quelques années Axoum soit beaucoup plus touristique : l’Ethiopie s’ouvre au monde extérieur à toute vitesse et ne connait pas la crise.

 

Axoum, une ville sainte

Il s’agit également d’un des plus grands centres religieux de l’Ethiopie. En effet, l’église Maryam Seyon héberge (soit-disant) l’Arche d’Alliance qui aurait été volé par le fils de la Reine Saba et du Roi Salomon. Cette vengeance serait du au fait que le Roi Salomon avait forcé par une ruse la Reine Saba à rester à Jérusalem et à lui faire un enfant.

L'église Sainte Marie de Sion

L'église Sainte Marie de Sion

 

Vous désirez voyager en Ethiopie et découvrir Axoum ? Regardez donc les billets d’avions pour Addis Abeba, la capitale de l’Ethiopie.

 

175 Comments

  1. Bravo Julien (mon homonyme) pour ton blog que je découvre via le site WED et son forum. Je découvre plein de destinations magnifiques grâce à tes articles. Tu me fais rêver. Super !

  2. Merci de nous faire partager votre connaissance de l’Éthiopie. Et niveau budget voyage , ca revient à combien pour 3 semaines?

    • Bonjour,

      L’Ethiopie est un pays très bon marché. Se nourrir revient à moins de 10€/jour et pour dormir il faut compter une quinzaine d’euros pour une nuit dans un hotel correct.
      En 3 semaines tu peux faire des trucs sympas, par exemple la visite du nord du pays : Axoum, le Tigray, Lalibela, Gondar, Bahar Dar et le Simien (je reviendrais sur ce circuits dans d’autres articles). Tu as aussi Harar à l’est d’Addis Abeba ou encore le sud du pays qui est surtout connu pour ses diverses tribus.

  3. Incroyable, je voyais pas l’Ethiopie aussi verdoyante ! Comme tu dis c’est un pays qui est victime de préjugés parce que c’est pas du tout l’image qu’on en a..

    • Salut,

      En effet comme je le répète, on est victime de clichés sur l’Ethiopie, j’y reviendrais dans un futur article, tu verras qu’il y a des endroits qui n’ont rien à envier à la France voire l’Irlande en terme de « verdure ».
      Le fait que le pays sont en altitude (peu de zones sont en dessous de 1500m joue beaucoup).

  4. Je n’imaginais pas l’Ethiopie comme ça moi non plus.

    Très sympa ton blog, J’y reviendrai 🙂

    • Salut,

      Ravi de voir que mon blog te plait, à une prochaine fois 🙂

  5. C’est vrai qu’on imagine pas forcément l’Ethiopie comme ça. Dernièrement j’ai vu un documentaire voyage sur le pays et c’était super vert! Wow. On imagine toujours un endroit super sec, aride. C’est une super découverte, ça donne vraiment envie d’y aller!:D

  6. Pouvoir visiter un site sans personne autour, c’est quand même un luxe… enfin, peut être moins en Éthiopie, comme tu le fais si justement remarquer.

  7. Que d’histoire au delà de ces images, au delà des préjugés sur ce si beau continent.

  8. Moi non plus j n’imaginais pas l’Éthiopie ainsi
    Tte façon merci pour l blog

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