Récits de voyages autour du monde et réflexions...

La Norvège : escale scandinave

La Norvège : escale scandinave

Après avoir surtout lu des récits de voyages sur l’Afrique avec notamment les forts coloniaux de Cape Coast au Ghana et la découverte de l’Ethiopie, je vous propose d’aller explorer des contrées plus rafraîchissantes. J’ai effectué un voyage d’une dizaine de jours en Norvège en mode camping sauvage (qui est d’ailleurs très bien toléré, j’y reviendrais dans le cadre d’un futur article). L’idée générale du circuit était un triangle partant d’Oslo avec comme autres sommets du triangle Trondheim et Bergen.

 

 

Découverte des fjords de la Norvège

Itinéraire du voyage :

[travelmap-map first=7 last=11]

Oslo, la capitale :

Bien qu’Oslo soit la capitale de la Norvège, elle reste une ville à échelle humaine (500 000 habitants) ce qui est logique vu que la Norvège n’a que 5 millions d’habitants. Bien qu’on en fasse vite le tour la ville est très agréable car la nature est très bien intégrée, il y a de nombreux espaces verts et la dimension humaine de la ville ne fait que renforcer cette impression avec un calme étonnant pour une capitale.

Vue depuis le port d'Oslo

Vue depuis le port d'Oslo

Sur le chemin entre Oslo et Trondheim, je suis passé par Lillehammer, ville où se sont déroulés les JO d’hiver de 1992 qui furent parmi les plus réussis de par l’ambiance présente (ce qui n’est guère étonnant quand on sait que les norvégiens sont des férus des sports d’hivers et notamment des sports nordiques comme le ski de fond ou le tremplin).

Trondheim, première étape sur la route du Cap Nord :

La cathédrale de Trondheim

Trondheim est une ville sur la côte atlantique à mi chemin entre Bergen et Tromsø au nord. Elle est notamment connue pour sa cathédrale d’influence gothique intéressante et qui est entouré d’un paisible cimetière très bien entretenu.

Trondheim

 

 

 

 

Les quais en bois de la ville sont également une autre attraction car ils sont très bien préservés. La cité abrite également une forteresse assez imposante sur une de ses collines. Y monter est une balade agréable car elle permet de profiter du calme très agréable de la ville. A noter que cette montée permet de voir le seul ascenseur à vélo existant dans le monde (et il n’est pas récent). On est bien dans un pays scandinave où les infrastructures ne sont pas uniquement conçues pour les voitures !

 

 

Trollstigen, une fierté du génie civil norvégien :

Trollstigen ou littéralement échelle du troll en norvégien. Il s’agit d’une route de 9% de dénivelé comprenant 11 lacets très serrés construite en 1936. La route est tellement étroite et raide qu’il peut être délicat de passer pour les camping cars. Elle est fermée en automne et en hiver à cause de la neige. L’ascension peut se faire également à pied. Le point de vue en haut est magnifique en tout point. C’est indubitablement une des attractions de la Norvège à titre mérité et d’ailleurs le musée en haut du col était en travaux lors de notre passage pour agrandissement.

Trollstigen : la route des trolls

 

Le Geirangerfjord :

Le Geirangerfjord est le fjord emblématique de la Norvège qu’on est sur de voir sur n’importe quelle carte postale. Il est d’ailleurs au patrimoine mondial de l’Unesco avec le Nærøyfjord. Un grand classique (et une des choses à faire) est de prendre le bateau pour faire une croisière dans le fjord. Elle dure en général 2 heures et permet de mieux apprécier la beauté du site. C’est également une bonne occasion pour voir de très belles cascades comme « les sept soeurs ».

Le Geirangerfjord

Un Hurtigruten à Geiranger

Un Hurtigruten était en train de repartir quand je suis arrivé à Geiranger. Les Hurtigruten sont des paquebots qui logent la côte norvégienne de Bergen à Kirkenes (au delà du cap Nord) avec 34 escales en 11 jours. Il s’agit d’une attraction touristique connaissant un succès toujours croissant et cela se comprend de par la beauté des côtes norvégiennes.

 

 

 

Balestrand, une paisible bourgade :

L'eglise de Balestrand

Balestrand est une petite ville balnéaire mais située à l’intérieur du pays. La bourgade a connu une très forte renommée à la fin du XIXème siècle quand l’élite allemande venait passer ses vacances, le Kaiser Guillaume II y a passé ses vacances. Elle se trouve à l’intersection entre deux fjords : le Sognefjord (le plus long fjord de Norvège, il fait plus de 200 kilomètres de long !) et le Fjærlandsfjord. On peut notamment y trouver une très jolie église anglicane en bois. J’ai bien dit anglican, d’influence anglaise, il s’agit d’une exception et d’ailleurs un pasteur anglais vient durant l’été pour y donner la messe.

Un fjord parmi tant d'autres

 

Borgund, une des plus vieilles églises du pays :

Sur le chemin entre Balestrand et Aurland, je me suis arrêté à Borgund : une des plus anciennes églises en bois de la Norvège. A noter qu’elle est très bien préservée.

L'église en bois de Borgund

L'église en bois de Borgund

 

Le Nærøyfjord et l’Aurandfjord :

Le Nærøyfjord

A noter que pour aller à Aurland en venant du nord, on passe par le plus long tunnel routier du monde : 24.5km et c’est long ! Surtout quand la vitesse maximale est de 80 km/h (ce qui peut se comprendre). Le tunnel comprend trois cavités tous les 8 kilomètres censées recréer une source de lumière naturelle afin de casser la « monotonie ».

Le Nærøyfjord est un des plus beaux fjords de Norvège avec le Geirangerfjord et cela est surtout du au fait qu’il s’agit d’un fjord très étroit. Le ferry qui va de Flåm à Gudvanger permet pendant 2 heures d’en apprécier toute la splendeur. Ce ferry parcout également l’Aurandfjord. Ce qui fait également le charme de ces deux fjords est la présence des villages coincés entre 2 falaises au bord du fjord et accessible uniquement par les ferries.

Un village au bord du Nærøyfjord

Un village au bord du Nærøyfjord

Ambiance fin du monde...

 

Bergen et son quartier hanséatique :

Bergen est la deuxième ville de Norvège après Oslo mais reste une assez petite ville (250 000 habitants). Une de ses particularités les plus amusantes est que, suite à une configuration géographique particulière, c’est une ville très pluvieuse : il y pleut 220 jours par an en moyenne (un norvégien m’a dit qu’il a même plu durant 84 jours d’affilée fin 2006 et ce n’était pas 3 gouttes qui tombaient chaque jour…). La ville est également connue pour son quartier hanséatique, il s’agit d’un quartier très bien préservé et restauré composé de maisons en bois. Bergen constitue une escale idéale sur la route des fjords.

Le quartier hanséatique mérite un petit paragraphe à lui seul. Il s’agissait d’une enclave allemande, les lois norvégiennes (danoises à l’époque car la Norvège faisait partie du Danemark) n’étaient pas valables. Les femmes n’avaient pas le droit de vivre dans le quartier, d’une part car très peu de femmes allemandes voulaient venir vivre dans des conditions très difficiles et d’autres part car si un allemand avait un enfant avec une femme norvégienne, l’enfant obtenait automatiquement les droits allemands et cela n’était pas apprécié par la ligue hanséatique.

Étant donné que le quartier était entièrement construit en bois, le feu était strictement interdit à part dans la cuisine commune qui était un bâtiment à part. On mangeait donc froid à l’intérieur des maisons. Tout cela montre bien que la vie d’un marchand de la hanse était loin d’être facile et il y avait d’ailleurs un turn-over important.

 

Marché des poissons à Bergen

Bergen est aussi célèbre pour son marché aux poissons, les pêcheurs viennent de toute l’Europe et parlent dans plusieurs langues. On y trouve de tout : du caviar, saumon et même du steak de baleine.

 

 

 

Le Queen Mary 2

 

Pour l’anecdote, le Queen Mary 2 (un des plus grands paquebots du monde) était en escale ce jour là et il s’agit d’un spectacle impressionnant étant donné qu’il était à quai dans la ville même.

 

 

 

 

 

Eidfjord, une cascade très impressionnante :

Eidfjordallen

Sur le chemin du retour, je suis passé par Eidfjord où se trouve la plus haute cascade de Norvège. A noter qu’on n’y voit pas grand chose à partir des parkings situés en haut des gorges, il est préférable d’aller directement au pied des chutes via une randonnée d’environ 2h (aller-retour).

 

 

 

 

Si vous avez aimé ce récit de voyage en Norvège, ce serait sympa de cliquer sur le bouton J’aime de Facebook !

124 Comments

  1. Super clichés ? Ils sont de toi ?

    Je projette de faire la Norvège l’an prochain et ton article m’a encore plus mis l’eau à la bouche !

    • Bonsoir,

      Les clichés sont de moi, ravi de voir que tu les trouves joli.
      N’hésite pas à aller en Norvège, c’est vraiment un très beau pays.

  2. J’aime beaucoup les photos qui donnent envie de découvrir ces lieux. Mais surtout j’aime bien les églises, notamment celle Anglicanes. Merci pour cet article. Il faudra que j’ajoute la Norvège à mes futurs trips

    • Salut,
      La Norvège est un pays parsemé d’églises en bois. Si tu les aimes, fonce en Norvège tu devrais trouver ton bonheur 🙂

  3. Magnifique ! Les pays scandinaves gagnent à être connus, ça me fait vraiment envie de programmer ça en été !
    Merci pour ces belles photos et cet article, toujours aussi intéressant !

  4. Wooow, sincèrement j’avais déjà bien envie de voir la Norvège(/Finlande/Suède), pour les villages de pêcheurs colorés (jamais trop su pourquoi, mais c’est un rêve depuis mes 14 ans). Mais là, franchement je suis particulièrement étonnée par l’église en bois! On dirait qu’elle est tout droit sortie d’un film fantastique! 😀 J’adore.

    • Si tu aimes les églises en bois tu vas être gaté, il y en a plein dans le pays !

  5. Bonsoir Julien,
    Tes photos sont très belles et tes commentaires plutôt sympas.
    J’avais déjà envie de découvrir la Norvège…
    Merci de ces belles contrées partagées.
    Amicalement.

    • Merci pour le compliment !

      J’ai crée ce blog justement pour ça. Ton commentaire me fait chaud au coeur et me prouve que j’ai raison de persévérer. Le voyage se doit d’être partagé avec les autres.

      Pour la Norvège, n’hésite pas et fonce (en été de préférence pour ne pas avoir froid) !

  6. Bonjour Julien,
    J’ai déjà à deux reprises visité la Norvège, il y a plus de 20 ans…! Oups ça ne me rajeunit pas 🙁
    Mais quel plaisir au travers de tes photos que les paysages n’ont pas changés, dans le sens de pas défigurés! Sans que tu n’en mettes la légende j’aurais immédiatement reconnu le fjord de Geiranger.
    A préciser pour ceux qui désirent faire ce voyage, qu’une escale à Oslo de quelques jours ne serait ce que pour aller découvrir les musées:
    *L’expédition du Kon-tiki (http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kon-Tiki)
    *Le musée qui a été construit autour d’un site archéologique où a été retrouvé un (ou deux je ne me rappelle plus) Drakkar. En effet, de peur de brisé ce bateau en le transportant, les Norvégiens ont construit le musée autour!
    *Le parc musée où l’on trouve des répliques des constructions norvégiennes à travers les siècles. On y trouve entre autre une réplique de l’église en bois de Borgund.
    *Il y a aussi un grand parc orné de multiple statues aux position équivoques… Le centre du parc est symbolisé par une statue « tour » représentant un enchevêtrement de corps (un certain DSK pensait à une partouze…!)
    De plus puisque tu en parles, effectivement la Norvège est un pays où les habitants aiment pratiquer le camping. Donc il n’est pas mal vu de faire du camping sauvage.

    Laurent

    • En effet ça ne te rajeunit pas :p

      Heureux de voir que tu as aimé le récit.

      Pour Oslo j’aurais bien aimé visiter plusieurs musées mais par manque de temps ça n’a pas pu se faire !

  7. En complément à ce que je viens d’écrire précédemment:
    -Les Drakkar ont été déplacés (http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_des_navires_vikings_d%27Oslo)
    -Un complément d’infos sur le musée folklorique des constructions norvégiennes (http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_folklorique_norv%C3%A9gien)
    -Le parc à sculpture dont je parlais s’appelle le « Frogner Park », quelques photos en vidéo clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0818P0OWd-4

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