Récits de voyages autour du monde et réflexions...

Tout savoir pour passer un excellent voyage à Vienne

Tout savoir pour passer un excellent voyage à Vienne

Comme je le disais dans l’article relatant mes premières impressions sur Vienne, voici mon retour sur ce week-end de 4 jours. Comme disait Stefan Zweig, un célèbre auteur autrichien « Nous n’avions plus de pouvoir politique et militaire, nous avons concentré nos efforts sur la culture« , Vienne est une capitale culturelle avec l’opéra philarmonique, l’influence qu’ont eu les grands compositeurs autrichiens, etc.

 

 

Contrairement à Paris, la première impression arrivée sur le territoire autrichien est très bonne. L’aéroport est relié au centre-ville par un train récent, très propre et électrique. C’est quand même autre chose que le RER B… En 16 minutes on est à Wien Mitte, principale gare de Vienne et qui donne accès au réseau de métro qui est constitué de 5 lignes.

Une horloge

Une horloge

Le centre-ville historique de Vienne est délimité par le ring, un boulevard circulaire. Il s’agit du premier arrondissement. Cet arrondissement n’est pas très grand et peut se parcourir à pied, c’est d’ailleurs plus que conseillé. Par contre, le métro est nécessaire pour aller à Schonbrunn ou encore à Reumannplatz pour aller déguster une glace à Tichy (quoique, c’est possible d’y aller à pied aussi !).

 

 

Stephansplatz

Le style baroque de la cathédrale

Le style baroque de la cathédrale

C’est la principale place du centre-ville avec ses rues piétonnes et notamment le Graben, ancien fossé romain qui a été reconverti en boulevard piéton qui fait la jonction avec la Kartner Strasse, autre boulevard piéton qui va jusqu’à Karlsplatz. Difficile de louper la cathédrale Stephansdom avec son toit. L’intérieur est très richement décoré dans le style baroque.

 

 

 

La Stephansdom

La Stephansdom

 

Les palais impériaux : Hofburg et Schönbrunn

Le Hofburg est le principal palais de la ville. Au sens strict du terme ce n’est pas un palais mais plutôt un ensemble de palais qui a été agrandi au fil des siècles et jusqu’en 1918 quand l’empire d’Autriche-Hongrie a dû capituler. Le musée Sissi permet d’en savoir plus sur l’impératrice Stéphanie, la femme de François-Joseph. Les bureaux de la présidence autrichienne sont également dans ce palais.

Le Hoffburg

Le Hofburg

 

Une cascade à Schonbrunn

Une cascade à Schonbrunn

Schönbrunn est la résidence de campagne des Habsbourg. L’empereur et sa famille passaient l’hiver à Hofburg et l’été à Schönbrunn. C’est clairement une visite incontournable. Il s’agit du Versailles local en légèrement moins imposant mais ça reste très respectable. L’immense parc est également très sympa, je vous conseille de vous y balader et de découvrir les petites curiosités disséminés comme la palmeraie.

 

 

Panorama sur les jardins de Schonbrunn (cliquez pour zoomer)

Panorama sur les jardins de Schonbrunn (cliquez pour zoomer)

 

Les musées de Schönbrunn et de Hofburg sont très bien conçus avec la découverte successive des salles du palais où a vécu notamment l’empereur François-Joseph. On regrettera juste l’absence de légende sur certains tableaux. Par contre, interdiction de prendre des photos dans les deux musées ! J’imagine que c’est pour éviter les embouteillages, déjà qu’on se sente à l’étroit par moment !

 

Personnellement j’ai zappé la visite des musées d’histoire naturelle et de science par manque de temps et également car cela commence à devenir redondant après avoir visité ceux de Paris, Londres, Berlin ou encore New-York. Il s’agit de deux palais jumeaux qui se font face. C’est bien connu, il vaut mieux faire deux exemplaires au cas où un serait abîmé, ils étaient prévoyants.

 

Rathaus et Burgtheater

Le Rathaus, l'hôtel de ville de Vienne

Le Rathaus, l'hôtel de ville de Vienne

Même l’hôtel de ville de Vienne est un monument architectural avec ses 5 beffrois. La tour principale, le Rathausmann, culmine à une centaine de mètres. L’hôtel de ville se situe en face du Burgtheater, le théâtre de ville de Vienne. Le parlement est juste à côté également.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Le Burgtheater

Le Burgtheater

 

Le palais Belvédère et ses jardins

Il s’agit de la résidence du prince Eugène de Savoie qui fut un excellent tacticien militaire. Il y a le Belvédère inférieur où résidait le prince et le Belvédère supérieur où se donnaient les réceptions. Le Belvédère supérieur abrite un très beau musée. Pourquoi deux palais qui se font face ? Je ne sais pas, il ne faut pas chercher à comprendre les excentricités des puissants…

 

Le Prater et le Danube

La grande roue du Prater

La grande roue du Prater

C’est le plus grand parc de Vienne avec la seule grande roue d’époque en Europe. Les viennois y passent leur dimanche. C’est un peu l’équivalent du Central Park à New-York excepté l’emplacement qui est un peu excentré.

 

 

 

 

Le Danube ne se trouve pas très loin. Les rives sont restées à l’état sauvage et c’est un peu particulier de s’y balader. On est à la fois surpris et déçu. Surpris car ce n’est pas courant de voir cela dans une grande ville et déçu car ce n’est pas très « clinquant ». A noter que le quartier d’affaires est de l’autre côté de la rive pour protéger le centre historique.

 

Le café viennois

Le café viennois

Les cafés viennois sont incontournables, ce n’est pas compliqué, il y en a partout. Je ne vais pas vous en faire l’inventaire mais j’ai beaucoup aimé le Cafe central pour son ambiance old school du XIXième siècle.

Le Cafe Sacher n’est pas exceptionnel même si leur cake (le cake Sacher original) n’est pas si mauvais que ça.

 

 

 

Je suis moyennement convaincu par le musée de Freud. Vienne est la ville où a résidé et travaillé Freud, le père de la psychologie analytique. On vous donne un épais document qui légende un ensemble de photos numérotés exhibées sur les murs et à vous de faire avec. Bilan, on se retrouve avec 300 photos certes très bien légendées mais ce n’est pas très pratique de devoir faire la navette entre le document et les photos. Au final c’est une exposition qui porte sur la vie de Freud, ses connaissances, ses relations, etc. On n’en apprend pas tellement sur la démarche scientifique qu’il a effectué et c’est bien dommage.

 

Vienne by night

Pour ceux qui veulent vivre Vienne de nuit, je conseille d’aller faire un tour du côté du jardin de Hofburg. Il s’y trouve deux boîtes de nuit qui diffusent de l’électro et du RNB. Les bars sont également nombreux et bien animés. Pour l’anecdote, alors qu’on se baladait sur la Kartner Strasse, principale artère piétonne, un gars nous a proposé d’aller faire un tour à « Chez nous » (le nom est d’origine) en nous disant qu’il y avait de « belles filles ». On a fini par comprendre qu’il s’agit carrément d’une maison close, à croire que c’est légal en Autriche !

On a également eu l’occasion de croiser une manif locale. Je vous laisse deviner leurs revendications !

Une manifestation...

Une manifestation...

 

Une des ruelles du vieux Viennes

Une des ruelles du vieux Viennes

Pour conclure, je suis pleinement convaincu par ce long week-end à Vienne. La ville ne m’a pas déçue d’un point de vue architectural. La densité des palais est même supérieure à Paris ! Le centre-ville est très propre et très agréable à visiter. Par contre je n’ai pas eu le temps de vraiment lier connaissance avec des viennois excepté un tour en boîte de nuit mais on ne peut pas dire que ça soit représentatif.

 

 

Voyager malin

  • Vienna card : pass de 72h pour les transports et donne droit à des réductions dans pas mal de musées.
  • Sissi card : si vous comptez visiter le château de Schönbrunn ainsi que Hofburg, cette carte vous permettra de réduire le prix.
  • Compter 19€ pour l’aller/retour à l’aéroport.

 

Et vous, êtes vous déja allé à Vienne ? Qu’en avez-vous pensé ?

N’hésitez pas à cliquer sur le bouton J’aime de Facebook si vous avez aimé l’article !

 

 

127 Comments

  1. Incroyable, tu sais, tu viens de me faire revivre mes 17 ans. À l’époque j’étais seule là bas, et bon, j’étais en peine d’amour (tu sais bien c’est quoi avoir 17 ans!), alors pour moi Vienne m’inspire quelque chose d’un peu étrange. Mais, là, tout d’un coup, grâce à ton article, j’ai envie d’y être à nouveau! Et ça, crois moi je ne pensais pas que ça arriverait un jour. Car il faut avouer que d’y être seule m’a permis de marcher énormément dans la ville et de découvrir au maximum 🙂

    • Ah sympa que mon récit évoque des souvenirs !

      Tu y as passé combien de temps ?

  2. C’est en effet une belle ville, souvent oubliée je trouve, mais qui mérite largement le détour.
    Il y a aussi la maison de l’artiste-peintre-militant (…) Hundertwasser que j’avais adoré à Vienne.

    http://objectifdeclic.blogspot.fr/2011/11/que-serait-vienne-sans-hundertwasser.html

  3. Vienne semble réellement magnifique!
    Mon amie et moi cherchions justement une ville d’Europe ou partir en Europe, je crois que tu nous a convaincus 🙂

  4. Les villes qui ont un long passé historique ont toujours des monuments magnifiques à découvrir tels ceux que tu nous présentes.
    Hormis ça, j’ai craqué sur ton café viennois, qui a l’air appétissant 😉

  5. Vienne a en effet l’air d’être une très belle ville à visiter. Tes photos donnent vraiment envie d’y aller faire un tour.

    Les cafés viennois et leurs pâtisseries doivent être réellement succulents je suppose.

  6. Article très complet 😉 Aller à Vienne c’est aussi l’occasion de visiter Bratislava pour une journée. A moins d’une heure (on peut prendre le bateau sur le Danube), la ville est petite mais avec beaucoup de charme. La Slovaquie utilise l’Euro, le niveau de vie étant moins élevé qu’en Autriche, il y a plein de bonnes affaires shopping.

    • d’accord avec toi! De Vienne, on avait fait une petite escapade à Bratislava. Ville de film je trouve, il faut dire que le contexte était spécial. Il pleuvait et il devait y avoir une manif quelque part parce qu’il y avait plein de policiers proche de nous, c’était un peu inquiétant, en plus on était rentrées dans un petit resto trop louche. C’était génial hehe

      • Ca a du être une expérience particulière en effet 🙂

        J’aurais bien aimé aller à Bratislava qui n’est qu’à un jet de pierre. Ce sera pour une autre fois !

    • J’imagine en effet que les opportunités doivent être nombreuses en Slovaquie.
      J’avais pensé à aller à Bratislava mais difficile de faire le combo Vienne-Bratislava en moins de 4 jours !

  7. Bonjour,
    En voyant ta photo de café viennois, je me suis posé une question bête, en France il y a le mot viennoiserie et les produits qu’on connait tous qui vont avec, mais à Vienne, ils préparent vraiment ce genre de choses (je suppose que oui mais bon…)? Et si oui, niveau qualité c’est comment?

    • Oui bien sur, il y a pas mal de viennoiseries locales. Le café viennois existe, il est appelé melange là bas.

  8. Merci pour ce très bon résumé de Vienne!
    Enormément de choses à faire dans cette ville à taille humaine.

    je regrette juste l’absence de beaux panoramas dans la ville 🙁

  9. J’ai passé quelques jours à Vienne, très jolie ville et effectivement, beaucoup de choses à faire ! Personnellement, j’ai bien apprécié une escapade le long du Danube en vélo. L’office du tourisme propose des guides très bien fait même si certains guides ne sont pas donnés aux touristes, il faut insister pour avoir le guide dédié, gratuit avec toutes les pistes cyclables le long du Danube en Autriche.

  10. J’y suis allée au mois de mai et j’ai adoré. Il y a toujours quelque chose à voir , une place, un monument, un musée… Malheureusement je n’ai pas eu le temps de tout voir , je retournerai prochainement dans cette ville !

  11. Merci pour tes conseils ils sont au top pour mon prochain départ en octobre !

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