Yemrehannas Kristos, une église faîte de genévriers et de gypse
Poursuivons la découverte de l’Ethiopie après avoir évoqué la légendaire ville d’Axoum et les stupéfiantes églises dans le roc de la région du Tigray. C’est maintenant le moment d’aller dans la région de Lalibela, ville sainte surnommée « La Nouvelle Jérusalem« .
Lalibela et ses environs…
La route vers Yemrehanna Kristos
Lalibela est un site exceptionnel qui éclipse un peu une autre église située à quelques kilomètres de là : Yemrehannas Kristos. Peu de visiteurs font l’effort d’y aller et pourtant c’est une église qui mérite amplement le détour que ce soit par les paysages le long de la route et l’église elle-même qui est faite de gypse et de bois de genévriers et est située dans une caverne. C’est en effet un des rares sites religieux que j’ai pu voir qui est construit au lieu d’être creusé dans la roche et de plus Yemrehannas Kristos est plus ancienne que les églises de Lalibela d’au moins 80 ans.
L’église est situé à environ 1h30 de Lalibela et y aller en voiture n’est guère plus rapide qu’à pied tellement la piste est en mauvais état suite à la saison des pluies.
La région de Lalibela
Yemerhanna Kristos, une fabuleuse église
Le chemin pour accéder à Yemrehanna Kristos
L’accès pour Yemrehannas Kristos est tout aussi agréable que la découverte de l’église elle même. Il faut emprunter un chemin composé de marches et d’escaliers pour cheminer à travers la montagne et accéder à la caverne.
Les moines qui gardent l’église sont très accueillants et font visiter la caverne sans problème. L’église est protégé par un mur qui bloque l’entrée de la caverne pour éviter les dégradations et également, je pense, protéger les deux bâtiments des intempéries. L’inconvénient est que cela obscurcit l’église mais la luminosité reste plus que correcte. Le site est très calme avec une belle cascade juste devant la caverne.
La caverne qui abrite l'église
L'église Yemrehanna Kristos
Plusieurs exemples de fenêtres "éthiopiennes"
L’église est constituée d’une alternance de troncs de bois et de granite blanc avec des fenêtres qui ont la forme de croix éthiopiennes, c’est à dire de multiples formes. Je vous montrerais d’ailleurs une svatiska (l’inverse de la « croix gammée ») sur une des églises de Lalibela ! Selon la légende, le bois viendrait d’Égypte et le granite de Jérusalem. Libre à vous d’y croire…
Un des éléments les plus surprenants de l’église est incontestablement son plafond en bois avec de superbes fresques. Évidemment le prêtre à insisté pour montrer les inévitables croix éthiopiennes. Je n’ai pas de photos du plafond à montrer car je n’ai pas voulu utiliser le flash et je n’avais pas de trépied pour améliorer l’ISO.
Le fond de la caverne est « rempli » d’ossements de pèlerins qui vont jusqu’à Yemrahannas Kristos pour y mourir soit de vieillesse, de maladie, etc. D’après les rumeurs il y en aurait plusieurs milliers ! Certains sont encore momifiés et en bon état ! Certains viendraient depuis la Syrie et Jérusalem…
Il y a également une tente où on ne peut pas s’approcher qui accueille supposément le tombeau du fondateur de l’église : Yemrehanna Kristos.
La tombe du fondateur de l'église
Les pèlerins de Yemrehanna Kristos
Il y avait une fête religieuse le jour où j’y suis allé d’où la présence de nombreux éthiopiens à côté de l’église pour assister à l’office religieux. D’ailleurs, il y aurait un lac sous l’église qui aurait de puissantes vertus curatives.
Le retour au village en contrebas est l’occasion de voir de nombreux éthiopiens qui repartent chez eux après l’office religieux.
Un militaire avec son AK-47
Ce qui m’a séduit dans cette église est tout d’abord sa différence avec les autres églises éthiopiennes mais également le cadre naturel de la caverne qui est très calme.
Dommage effectivement que tu n’ai pas pu photographier ce plafond. En tout cas c’est bien un endroit original à visiter! Merci de nous l’avoir fait partager.
Quel endroit surprenant !! la construction sous la grotte doit être impressionnante …
Sais tu pourquoi ils ont choisi cet endroit ?
C’est impressionnant, on a envie de la visiter. Est ce qu’on peut voir les corps momifiés?
On peut mais je n’ai pas pris de photos car on n’y voyait pas grand chose et aussi un peu par respect !
ouais…même voir des momies exposées au British Museum me mettait mal à l’aise, j’avais l’impression qu’on exposait des être humains comme des animaux de foire, alors que jamais ils ne se seraient doutés de leur sort des milliers d’années plus tard. En même temps, c’est un patrimoine humain, culturel, historique!
C’est vrai qu’elle est surprenante cette église… et les alentours semblent bien beaux !
C’est un endroit qui à l’air sympa à visiter. En tout cas je vois que tu n’es pas de ceux qui ont froid aux yeux et que tu vas dans des endroit où beaucoup n’iraient pas nécessairement…
Franchement, merci pour tous ces endroits que tu nous fait découvrir sur ton blog.
ça change des « sites touristiques » habituels …
Très jolies photos.
Merci pour le compliment et je suis ravi de voir que j’en inspire certains avec ces endroits hors du temps !
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