Récits de voyages autour du monde et réflexions...

Leopardskin, une expatriée à Conakry en Guinée

Leopardskin, une expatriée à Conakry en Guinée

 

Aujourd’hui je vous propose une interview d’une expatriée qui travaille à Conakry, la capitale de la Guinée-Conakry. Pour des raisons de discrétion, elle préfère garder l’anonymat, nous l’appellerons donc Leopardskin. Leopadskin tient également un blog sur la vie à Conakry.

 

– Peux-tu te présenter rapidement ?

Je suis une parisienne qui a quitté sa ville natale pour s’installer quelques années à Conakry. Je suis comme un léopard, je ne me déplace pas sans mes taches : chassez le culturel et il revient au galop.

 

– Quels sont tes principaux voyages ?

Conakry est ma première expérience africaine. J’ai surtout voyagé en Asie : en Thaïlande, au Laos, en Chine, au Népal, en Birmanie, au Sri-Lanka, et puis de nombreuses fois en Inde – la région himalayenne Ladakh, Sikkim… J’ai commencé à 18 ans, le Bac en poche, pour des voyages en solitaire allant de trois à six mois. J’en garde des souvenirs émus, des moments difficiles mais surtout des rencontres extraordinaires.

 

– Peux-tu nous raconter une expérience qui t’a marquée ?

La levée des filets

La levée des filets

Une expérience de maladie qui remonte maintenant à quelques années. Au fin-fond de la Chine, à 18 ans, sans un sou à Kunming… 40°C de fièvre, je pars faire du change à la banque dans l’idée de me faire soigner, j’y arrive très péniblement, suffocant à chaque pas… mais le bureau de change est fermé ce jour-là ! Je m’effondre en pleurs sur un petit banc au milieu de la banque, puis quelqu’un m’aborde en Anglais (cela faisait bien trois semaines que je voyageais toute seule et que je n’avais pas rencontré une seule personne parlant anglais) « what happens ?! » j’y crois à peine, je ne lève même pas la tête et baragouine que je n’en peux plus… le monsieur, qui a identifié mon accent, me dit en Français « mais je connais très bien la France, j’ai d’ailleurs fait mes études en Suisse ! » Ce monsieur qui s’est avéré être un véritable ange-gardien me prend sous son aile et m’emmène à l’hôpital, il paie tous mes soins. Pendant que je suis allongée avec ma perfusion dans le bras, il me raconte la révolution culturelle, sa femme, l’enfant qu’ils désespèrent de voir arriver… Après avoir veillé sur moi, traduit les recommandations des médecins, acheté mes médicaments; il m’emmène dans un restaurant et me raccompagne jusqu’à mon hôtel. C’était un homme d’affaires chinois qui résidait à l’époque en Suisse, après avoir passé le plus clair de son séjour à Pékin il passait à Kunming en coup de vent, le temps d’une journée… qu’il a passée à me soigner. On s’est revu quelques années plus tard à côté de Notre-Dame à Paris et restons en contact.
Beaucoup d’autres très belles rencontres lors de mes voyages en solitaire.

 

– Pourquoi avoir décidé d’habiter à Conakry ?

Ce n’est pas un choix, plutôt une affectation. Une proposition professionnelle impossible à refuser.

 

– Peux-tu nous raconter une anecdote que tu as vécue à Conakry ?

Une pub pour une sauce tomate

Une pub pour une sauce tomate

J’en ai quelques unes, mais si elles sont susceptibles de faire rire sur le coup, elles peuvent tout autant donner envie de pleurer, car cela à trait à l’état dans lequel se trouve le pays… je préfère donc m’abstenir ! Tout ce qui concerne le rapport avec la police et le niveau de l’enseignement en Guinée est une source inépuisable d’anecdotes…

 

– Quelles sont les différences entre la vie en France et en Afrique de l’Ouest ?

Vivre dans un pays étranger est une expérience très différente que de simplement passer, traverser les villes, les paysages, et repartir au bout de quelques jours. Tout le monde connaît la phrase de Nicolas Bouvier dans L’usage du monde « on croit qu’on va faire un voyage, mais bientôt c’est le voyage qui vous fait, ou vous défait ». J’ai longtemps gardé cette phrase en marque-page, l’image aussi d’une serviette gorgée d’eau que l’on tord un maximum pour en extraire tout son jus… Eh bien finalement, vivre à l’étranger nous fait prendre des repères très proches de ceux qui nous guidaient dans la vie citadine qui a préexisté à l’expatriation, on ne fait pas que passer, on s’organise et on se projette aussi. On est loin de l’époque où il fallait faire la queue deux heures à la Poste pour pouvoir émettre un appel et en conséquence, l’éloignement se fait bien moins sentir. A Conakry les immeubles « tout confort » (eau courante, électricité aux heures de consommation importante) sont des sortes d’îlots imperméables à la vie qui se déploie tout autour, dans les bidonvilles. On pourrait tout aussi bien vivre sur Mars ou au milieu de l’Arctique, on a notre antenne de réception Internet, le satellite pour regarder le journal de France 2, un groupe électrogène, un forage qui nous assure l’eau courante… Bref, de telles disparités sont évidemment très dérangeantes. Ce qui nous paraît être la norme (avoir accès à l’électricité ou à Internet) nous fait appartenir à une classe de privilégiés.

Un match de foot dans la rue

Un match de foot dans la rue

A part l’environnement matériel que je viens de décrire, il est évident qu’absolument tout est différent ! Ce qui change, bien sûr, c’est l’environnement relationnel, puisqu’en arrivant, on ne connaît personne, il faut tout construire. Les discussions d’expatriés tournent souvent autour des différences culturelles, et l’on met en commun nos expériences, étonnements et anecdotes.

Ce qui me déplaît le plus dans la vie à Conakry c’est d’être en permanence en voiture, de n’avoir aucun espace pour se balader à pied. Voilà l’une des motivations à voyager « à l’intérieur du pays » comme on dit ici.

 

– La France ne te manque-t-elle pas par moments ?

Indispensable en été !

Indispensable en été !

J’ai eu une petite période de nostalgie de l’ambiance hivernale autour des fêtes de fin d’année… ici il fait 30°C toute l’année (sauf l’été pendant les pluies !) ce qui est fort agréable mais nous coupe du cycle des saisons. Pour le moment, un retour en France par an me suffit.

 

 

 

 

 

– Que dirais tu à ceux qui veulent s’expatrier ?

Tout dépend dans quel pays ceux-ci veulent s’expatrier car les enjeux ne sont pas les mêmes selon les destinations. Pour ce qui concerne la Guinée, je suis souvent sollicitée à ce sujet mais j’avoue que conseiller quelqu’un sur le choix de venir ou non à Conakry est une chose que je répugne vraiment à faire. Je connais des personnes qui attendent avec impatience le jour où ils quitteront enfin ce pays, vécu comme profondément hostile, d’autres qui espèrent voir leur contrat renouvelé…
Je suppose qu’il faut avant tout se sentir capable d’être loin de ses proches – tout le monde ne supporte pas l’expatriation.

 

– Un dernier mot à dire ?

J’aime vivre à l’étranger, je prends ça comme une chance. Les différences sociale et culturelles sont parfois vécues avec violence, mais pour peu qu’on s’y intéresse et qu’on prenne un minimum de recul sur ses ressentis, qu’on essaie d’en comprendre les logiques, ça rend tout le monde plus intelligent.

 

Un coucher de soleil à Conakry

Un coucher de soleil à Conakry

 

 

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