Le promontoire Angel’s Landing au Zion National Park
Zion National Park fut pour moi le site le plus majestueux que j’ai visité lors de mon road trip dans le Grand Ouest américain devant même le Grand Canyon. Il s’agit d’une vallée encaissée entre des falaises, un peu comme les Gorges du Tarn par exemple. Ce road trip a été effectué durant le mois de décembre, en plein hiver donc, et ce fut l’occasion de découvrir des paysages très connus mais sous un angle différent avec de la neige. Vous pouvez en avoir un aperçu sur l’article que j’ai rédigé à propos de Mesa Verde, ruines amérindiennes. Cette neige permet d’obtenir des tableaux somptueux mêlant le blanc et l’ocre de la roche des mesas. Zion National Park est situé au nord du Grand Canyon et est un des multiples parcs de la région et incontestablement un des joyaux.
Le Grand Ouest américain, un paysage emblématique !
Zion Park, un endroit incontournable dans le grand ouest américain !
Pour l’anecdote, la route permettant d’y accéder emprunte un tunnel qui a été construit en 1920. Il s’agissait à l’époque du plus long tunnel pour les voitures jamais construit (et oui, il n’y avait pas beaucoup de voiture à cette époque même si les ford T commençaient à se démocratiser !) et il a coûté une fortune. D’ailleurs, il a été conçu pour la ford T qui, je vous le rappelle si vous ne le savez pas, n’est pas ce que j’appelle une voiture imposante. Cela a pour conséquence que si un camping-car veut traverser le tunnel, le conducteur doit en notifier les rangers qui vont prendre soin de bloquer l’autre sens (et pour les camions ce n’est même pas la peine d’y penser !).
Je ne lui ai pas demandé s'il avait froid !
Le parc compte de nombreuses randonnées de tous les niveaux. De plus, Zion Park est très bien balisé et documenté, on vous donne d’ailleurs tout ce qu’il faut à l’entrée du parc avec un plan et des recommandations de la part des rangers.
Vous l’aurez deviné en lisant le titre, ce parc contient un petit bijou : le promontoire d’Angels Landing. C’est pour moi, une des meilleures randonnées que j’ai eu l’occasion d’effectuer, c’est un « must see » à faire obligatoirement ! Le promontoire permet d’avoir un excellent panorama du Zion Canyon.
C’est parti pour une découverte en photo de cette randonnée !
Angels Landing, une randonnée exceptionnelle
La randonnée est un peu plus difficile à faire en hiver à cause de la présence de la neige car le sol est glissant. Le chemin fait environ 4km de long (donc 8km aller-retour) avec un dénivelé de plusieurs centaines de mètres (je n’ai plus la hauteur exacte en tête). Je conseille de partir assez tôt le matin car redescendre avec une mauvaise luminosité devient carrément suicidaire !
Les "Walter's Wiggles"
La randonnée commence par les « Walter’s Wiggles« , une série de 21 lacets pour monter sans trop de difficulté jusqu’au Scout Lookout, une sorte de « plateau » qui offre déja une très bonne vue sur la vallée. Les moins courageux pourront s’arrêter là et attendre que le reste du groupe monte tout en haut du promontoire. C’est à partir de là que les choses se compliquent vraiment, la partie finale est très étroite et bien pentue. Cette dernière partie fait un peu moins d’1km mais il vaut mieux prendre son temps pour monter tranquillement car on n’a pas droit à l’erreur !
Déconseillé à ceux qui ont le vertige !
Un des nombreux passages où les crampons sont une bénédiction !
Mettre des crampons sur la semelle des chaussures est une excellente idée pour ne pas déraper toutes les 5 minutes et accessoirement s’offrir un plongeon dans le vide ! Heureusement, les rangers ont équipé le chemin de chaînes tout du long du parcours et il faut souvent s’accrocher aux chaînes le long de la paroi afin de négocier les passages délicats sereinement.
Ca grimpe dur !
Arrivé en haut du promontoire, c’est le moment de prendre conscience que l’enjeu en valait largement la chandelle. De plus, les conditions climatiques étaient excellentes avec une très belle luminosité et un air pur. Comme je le disais en introduction, le contraste entre les falaises ocres et la neige sans compter la nature verte est vraiment un spectacle magnifique. Ce jour là, moi et mon ami étions quasiment les seuls à être monté en haut, la tranquillité est garantie pour profiter de ce rare panorama !
Le Zion Canyon
Le fond de la vallée qui finit en cul de sac !
Si vous n’êtes pas à l’aise avec les randonnées sportives ou tout simplement avec le vertige, cela risque d’être délicat pour vous en hiver. Toutefois je pense qu’en été elle se fait sans trop de problèmes. Avis aux amateurs qui passent dans le coin !
De nombreuses surprises se cachent dans le Zion Park
Zion Park est également un paradis pour les grimpeurs !
Emerald Pool Trail
Pour les moins courageux ou ceux qui ne peuvent pas physiquement, il y a de nombreuses randonnées de toutes les longueurs et difficultés. Je conseille notamment Emerald’s Pools Trail qui est de longueur modulable avec plusieurs variantes plus ou moins longues. Elle permet en été d’observer de très belles cascades il parait et en hiver c’est l’occasion de voir des mares gelées.
Et vous, quelles sont les randonnées qui vous ont marqué ?
ça me rappelle un mix de plusieurs endroits où j’ai été un Australie! même si le paysage est magnifique en hiver!
J’imagine qu’en été on peut aller nager?
C’est vraiment magnifique, ça donne envie de se perdre la dedans !
Il est possible camper dans ce genre d’endroit ou tu es obligé de rentrer après ton excursion?
Vraiment sublime !
Clair qu’il faut s’équiper un minimum pour certaines randonnées. Angels Landing m’a l’air d’être particulièrement dangereuse. La photo légendée « Ça grimpe dur ! » est particulièrement impressionnante !
En tout cas, cet article donne vraiment envie de visiter le Zion National Park. Cela change de l’éternel Grand Canyon que l’on nous rabâche à tout bout de champ (même si ce-dernier est incontestablement une chose à voir).
Très sympa Zion, mais j’avoue que j’ai du mal à classer les différents parcs de l’Utah ! Tous bien différents. Il me semble qu’Angels Landing on ne l’a pas faite car ma copine a le vertige 😉
C’est fou je n’aurais jamais cru voir un jour de la neige et des cactus au même endroit! C’est vraiment magnifique en tout cas, des paysages tout à fait étonnants!
Pour n’avoir fait que le parc du Grand Canyon (mais je n’ai pas fait de randonnée), j’avoue que Zion a l’air vraiment bien. D’autant plus qu’il y a un vaste choix de randonnées pour tous les niveaux.
Mes plus belles randonnées, sans être aussi sportives, ont été aux Calanques de Marseille et en Suisse.
Je vais mettre Zion sur ma « bucket list ».
C’est clair qu’il y a énormément de parcs dans le Grand Ouest américain qui se valent tous les uns et les autres. Personnellement, je n’ai pas eu le temps d’en voir certains qui m’attiraient beaucoup comme le Bryce Canyon, ce sera pour une autre fois !
Les Calanques de Marseille sont très belles aussi, c’est vraiment un site exceptionnel, Sormiou, etc. D’ailleurs c’est devenu un parc national depuis quelques jours !
Malheureusement pour moi, je n’ai fait que passer en voiture à travers Zion, au mois de novembre et c’était superbe!!! Ce qui différencie Zion des autres… disons que c’est un Grand Canyon à l’envers. Le Grand Canyon se découvre du haut (et les randonneurs vont vers le bas) tandis que Zion s’aborde depuis le bas et on peut y faire des ransonnées vers le haut. ;D
Dommage !
Excellente définition de la différence entre les 2 canyons ! Je la retiens.
Ça doit être GÉNIAL faire un trek dans ce coin, surtout, plus c’est abrupte, plus c’est impressionnant! Alors, t’as croisé des coyotes? 😉
Non j’en ai pas rencontré, ils devaient être frileux !
C’est vrai qu’avec la neige, les photos sont sublimes !
Je confirme que la rando Angel’s Landing est (un peu) dangereuse. Il y a d’ailleurs eu plusieurs morts sur cette rando. Et si vous avez le vertige, ne la tentez pas, il suffit d’un seul faux pas, vous finissez 400m plus bas !
On y est allés en Septembre, il n’y avait donc pas de neige. On commence à grimper (la première partie de la fin de l’ascension ressemble un peu à de la grimpette), j’arrive après le premier virage, et là je fais « hop demi tour, ça fait flipper ». Finalement je me dis que ce serait bête d’abandonner ici, j’y retourne donc tout seul (mon amie à le vertige). A deux ou trois endroits il faut vraiment pas faire le malin, surtout lorsque l’on croise quelqu’un. Eh oui, à deux, il y en a forcément un du côté des chaines, et l’autre ben … du côté du vide. Mais le jeu en vaut la chandelle, la vue d’en haut est juste terrible !
Salut Jérémy,
C’est clair que c’est une rando impressionnante infaisable pour ceux qui ont le vertige. Comme tu dis, arrivé à la moitié du chemin, ce serait bête de ne pas continuer !
Le jeu en vaut la chandelle !
C’est vraiment magnifique, en plus le grand Canyon est à la mode en ce moment avec le nouveau record battu à la TV l’avez vu vous?
C’est vrai que c’est magnifique. Voilà une destination qui me fait rêver. J’aime tellement mon île (la corse) que j’ai du mal à aller ailleurs. Mais là, vu ces magnifiques photos, j’avoue que je me laisserai tenter !
Superbe photos ……
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Tres jolie photos,
Merci pour l’article
Superbe.
Je reve de partir avec mes 2 enfants en road trip dans le Grand Ouest américain.
merci de nous faire rever.
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