Récits de voyages autour du monde et réflexions...

Le marché des fétiches de Lomé au Togo

Le marché des fétiches de Lomé au Togo

 Lomé, la capitale du Togo est également connue pour son marché des fétiches. De nombreux féticheurs viennent du Bénin voisin pour vendre leurs « produits ».

Il faut noter que les gérants du marché ne perdent pas de vue le plus important : il est conseillé de payer un guide qui détaille un peu les étalages et il faut payer si on veut prendre des photos…

 

Un marché des fétiches bien rempli

Le marché frappe à première vue par ses nombreux squelettes d’animaux qui remplissent chacun un rôle précis.

Des dépouilles d'animaux

Des dépouilles d'animaux

 

Que ce soit des ossements d’hippopotames, d’éléphants, de gazelles, d’hyènes, de babouins ou encore des oiseaux empaillés les fétiches ne manquent pas et ont chacun une signification précise. J’ai même vu un bébé crocodile dans un seau ! D’après ce que j’ai compris, le marché des fétiches de Lomé est une référence dans le domaine si j’ose dire.

 

Le marché n'est pas en rupture de stock !

Le marché n'est pas en rupture de stock !

 

Présentation de plusieurs fétiches africains

Un crâne d'hippopotame

Un crâne d'hippopotame

A la fin de la visite, le guide me propose de rencontrer un féticheur qui va me parler de ses fétiches et me faire des démonstrations.

 

Etant donné que ça fait un petit moment, j’ai oublié les noms des objets présentés (j’aurais du les noter sur le moment même) mais je me rappelle la signification de certains. Ils s’accompagnent également d’un rituel spécifique. Quelques exemples de fétiches présentés :

 

  • Un fétiche à porter quand on part en voyage. Attention : le féticheur a clairement précisé qu’il ne faut porter ce fétiche que pendant les voyages sinon on risque d’avoir quelque chose de grave.
  • Un fétiche qui chasse les mauvais esprits de la maison.
  • Un fétiche pour « envouter » la personne qu’on aime.
  • et tant d’autres…

D'autres fétiches !

D'autres fétiches !

Un fétiche (un galet)

Un fétiche (un galet)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A la fin de la visite, le féticheur m’a donné une carte de visite où on peut y voir son nom avec en dessous « Ingénieur traducteur des forces vaudous africaines » !

 

Des ossemets à la pelle

Des ossements en quantité

 

Une machoire de crocodile

Une machoire de crocodile

C’est toujours un peu particulier de visiter ce genre d’endroits car c’est là qu’on comprend que les peuples sont très différents. On a un peu envie de sourire quand on entend les africains raconter des histoires sur le fétichisme (j’ai entendu de ces histoires !) mais à force de voir à quel point ils sont convaincus on en viendrait presque à douter ! Qui sait, ils ont peut-être raison…

 

 

 

Le puit sacré avec de nombreux fétiches

Le puit sacré avec de nombreux fétiches

 

Le marché des fétiches de Lomé au Togo

Le marché des fétiches de Lomé au Togo

 

Si vous avez aimé cet article, je vous invite à cliquer sur le bouton J’aime !

 

130 Comments

  1. Alors Julien, tu as acheté le fétiche du voyageur?

  2. Ça doit être plutôt impressionnant à voir. J’aimerais bien connaitre les histoires qu’ils t’ont racontés, peut-être dans un prochain article….

    • J’en parlerais peut-être dans un futur article mais il y a certaines anecdotes que je préfère garder pour moi !

      • Salut Julien,

        Ça m’intéresse également ces histoires. Ça fait partie du patrimoine du pays dans un certain sens.

        Et sinon tu as ramené une tête de croco pour mettre dans ton salon ?
        😀

        • Je n’ai pas ramené d’ossements, j’ai préféré ramener des oeuvres culturelles qui m’intéressaient plus ! comme des peintures entre autre.
          Pour les histoires vu que ça a l’air d’intéresser des gens, je vais y réfléchir 🙂

  3. C’est sacrément impressionnant tous ces ossements ! Je ne crois pas au fétichisme, mais je crois que ça m’aurait donné des frissons dans le dos… J’ai adoré ta remarque concernant la carte de visite de ton guide !!! Il existe de ces métiers de part le monde…… 😉

    • Ah ça, il y a vraiment de tout dans le monde !

  4. haha « Ingénieur traducteur des forces vaudous africaines » , en voilà un qui sait bien se présenter, son cv doit être impressionnant 😉

    • En effet. Par contre je doute qu’il ait un cv tel qu’un européen pourrait le voir :p

  5. J’ai également du mal à y croire mais c’est intéressant de rencontrer des gens qui ont ces croyances. J’aimerais bcp me rendre dans ce coin de l’Afrique que je n’ai jamais exploré…

    • Je ne peux que te conseiller d’aller en Afrique de l’Ouest. Les habitants sont très chaleureux et il y a de nombreux endroits à découvrir sans compter les cultures qui sont très différentes !
      D’après ton blog tu vas surtt en Afrique du sud non ?

  6. Wow, c’est très impressionnant! Je n’aurais jamais imaginé qu’un endroit comme celui-là existe! Très belles photos aussi.

    • Le monde est rempli de richesses insoupçonnées et j’essaye de les découvrir petit à petit. J’ai d’autres endroits remarquables dans les cartons qui attendent d’être publiés !

  7. Sans même y croire, cette accumulation de charme et de porte-bonheur c’est très impressionnant.
    Par contre ossements, peaux de bêtes et mâchoires de crocodiles… c’est pas vraiment « eco-friendly » tout ça 😉

    • Ah ça, maintenant on sait où passe les animaux de la savane :p

  8. Ahhhhh Tu étais à lomé !! Ma ville !!
    Dis moi tu as visité le grand marché ?
    Tu es allé à la frontière avec le ghana ?
    Tu es allé a Aného ?

    tu as passé combien de temps ?

    • Bonjour Faouzane,

      Tu es originaire de Lomé ? C’est marrant le hasard ! Oui j’ai vu le grand marché avec sa cathédrale. Je logeais dans le quartier de Bé Klikamé juste au nord du boulevard 13 janvier. En fait j’étais chez un ami qui a de la famille à Lomé (sa mère est togolaise).
      Je suis resté 2 semaines à Lomé, on en a profité pour aller à Kpalimé et aux monastères bénédictins.
      J’ai vu la frontière avec le Ghana, on l’a franchie pour aller à Accra et Cape Coast (j’ai écris un article dessus d’ailleurs) mais c’était compliqué pour le visa !
      Pour Aneho, pareil on a longé la côté jusqu’à Cotonou, Grand Popo, Ouidah, Porto-Novo…

      J’ai un article dans les cartons qui raconte mon voyage de Cape Coast jusqu’à Porto-Novo, ce sera pour dans quelques jours ! J’ai beaucoup aimé ce voyage, c’était super humainement.

      Tu as fait tes études en France je suppose ? Tu as prévu de revenir travailler au Togo dans le futur ?

      • Trop cool. J’ai habité pendant longtemps pas loin de bè, a akodèsséwa.

        J’ait fait mes études en Côte d’ivoire (primaire) et au Togo (collège). Puis l’université en France.

        J’ai envie en effet de rentrer bosser labas, un de ces jours. Mais pour l’instant, l’envie de voir le monde est plus forte !

        • Je te comprend, il faut voir le monde tant qu’on est jeune !

  9. Le coup de la carte de visite… « Ingénieur traducteur des forces vaudous africaines », il ne manque pas d’aplombs le gars… Quant à toutes ces histoires, ça doit sûrement valoir le coup d’en parler plus précisément… Elles doivent être plus incroyables les unes que les autres…

    • Il sait se vendre en effet !

      Pour les histoires, vu que tout le monde en veut, j’essaierais d’en raconter dans un futur article !

  10. Ingénieur traducteur des forces vaudous africaines, c’est assez impressionnant! J’aimerais bien entendre les histoires qu’on t’a raconté 🙂
    D’où est ce qu’il récupère cette quantité d’ossements?

    • Pour les ossements, je suppose qu’ils récupèrent les animaux chassés ou qui sont morts.

      Pour les histoires, j’y songerais !

  11. Oups, au début en voyant ces photos, j’ai trouvé ça glauque et de mauvais goût. Mais en lisant l’article, effectivement on comprend qu’autres pays, autres coutumes et donc autres mœurs…! En tout cas, c’est très instructif.
    Par contre cette carte de visite, c’est de l’or en barre, à garder. Ça m’a valu un fou-rire à le lecture de l’intitulé!!

    Laurent

  12. Génial, je ne connaissais pas ce marché impressionnant !

    J’ai pris note et tenterai d’aller le visiter !

  13. Commentaire

  14. Waouhh , c es super beau ces zamour j’aimerais en savoir plus , c es riche tout sa .

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