Récits de voyages autour du monde et réflexions...

Dubrovnik et le Monténégro

Dubrovnik et le Monténégro

J‘ai eu l’occasion d’effectuer un voyage d’une semaine au Monténégro en passant également par Dubrovnik surnommée la perle de l’Adriatique. J’ai écrit un petit retour sur ce voyage qui fut très agréable.

 

 

 

 

 

Dubrovnik : la perle de l’Adriatique

La ville a subi des dégâts considérables durant la guerre des Balkans dans les années 90 mais la restauration initiée par l’UNESCO a porté ses fruits et la ville est de nos jours très agréable à visiter. La visite sur les remparts est à faire, elle permet d’avoir une très belle vue de la ville et de ses multiples églises.

Dubrovnik, la perle de l'Adriatique
Dubrovnik, la perle de l’Adriatique

Il y a également plusieurs petits musées intéressants présentant la ville du temps de Venise. Une pause à midi dans un restaurant du port est plus qu’appréciable, les plats proposés sont d’influence méditerranéenne avec notamment des fruits de mer et sont délicieux.

 

 

 

Dubrovnik, vue des remparts

Dubrovnik, vue des remparts

Poste de frontière bosnien

Poste de frontière bosnien

Après avoir visité Dubrovnik, je suis allé au Durmitor National Park au nord du Monténégro. Afin de gagner du temps, j’ai coupé à travers la Bosnie par Trebinje. On voit tout de suite la différence avec la Croatie, la ville était en mauvais état et la misère bien plus présente. Les stigmates de la dernière guerre des Balkans sont égalements présents…

 

 

 

Le Durmitor National Park

Un viaduc sur la Tara

Un viaduc sur la Tara

Il s’agit d’un parc dans le nord du Monténégro. Le Monténégro reste avant tout un pays montagneux et cela est vite confirmé en rentrant dans les terres (et ce n’est même pas nécessaire par endroits comme dans les bouches de Kotor, j’y reviendrais). On y trouve notamment le canyon de la Tara, le plus profond canyon d’Europe (jusqu’à 1900m de profondeur !).

Le point de départ des visites du parc a été Zabljak, une petite ville située à l’entrée du parc. Il s’agissait d’un centre très touristique du temps de l’ère communiste (la Yougoslavie de Tito) et cela se voit aisément par la présence d’hôtels « communistes », grands, gris, avec de nombreuses chambres sans âmes et commençant à accuser le poids de l’âge. Toutefois, la ville reprend de la vigueur avec l’entrée du Monténégro dans l’UE et le tourisme qui redémarre.

Le Lac Noir au Durmitor

Le Lac Noir au Durmitor

Le parc Durmitor avec la Tara au fond

Le parc Durmitor avec la Tara au fond

 

Le lac Skadar, fontière entre le Monténégro et l’Albanie

Petit village sur le lac Sjezero

Petit village sur le lac Sjezero

Il s’agit d’un des plus grands lacs d’Europe et également d’une réserve ornithologique très fréquentée par les oiseaux. Il est possible d’y voir parmi les derniers pélicans d’Europe. La frontière avec l’Albanie passe au milieu du lac : 2/3 du lac est monténégrin et le dernier tiers albanais. Une balade sur le lac à bord d’un petit bateau est vivement conseillée ne serait-ce que pour voir les oiseaux. Pour l’anecdote, il y a un petit ilot avec les ruines d’une ancienne prison turque, pratique quand la plupart des gens ne savaient pas nager à l’époque !

L'hôtel Pelican au lac Sjezero

L'hôtel Pelican au lac Skadar

J’ai passé la nuit dans un hôtel sympathique à Virpazar , le Pélican. C’est un petit hôtel confortable et géré par une famille. La famille peut d’ailleurs vous montrer une pièce où sont rassemblées de nombreuses photos anciennes et documents ainsi que le grenier qui contient de nombreux outils locaux d’époque.

 

 

 

La prison turque sur le lac Skadar

La prison turque sur le lac Skadar

Sveti Stefan

Ce petit village présente la particularité d’être sur une toute petite île à quelques dizaines de mètres de la côte et relié par une petite route. Le village était fermé et il est prévu d’en faire un hôtel de luxe, décision assez regrettable au sens que cela contribue à un appauvrissement du patrimoine visitable par le « vulgum pecus ».

Sveti Stefan, village sur l'Adriatique

Sveti Stefan, village sur l'Adriatique

 

Cetinje, l’ancienne capitale

Bâtiment d'une ancienne légation étrangère à Cetinje

Bâtiment d'une ancienne légation étrangère à Cetinje

Sous l’impulsion de Petar II, l’indépendance du Monténégro a été reconnue par les principales puissances européennes en 1878 et Cetinje, la capitale à cette époque, a bénéficié de cette reconnaissance. En effet, plusieurs pays ont établi une délégation étrangère, l’équivalent d’une ambassade, et les consulats de France, Royaume-Uni ou encore Russie sont parmi les plus beaux bâtiments de la ville. Elle a gardé une atmosphère fin XIXième, début XXième. Il s’agit d’une petite ville qu’il est possible (et même conseillé) de visiter à pied, flâner dans les rues bordées de platanes est à la fois reposant et permet de vivre un « retour en arrière » tellement la ville a gardé de son charme d’antan.

Un monastère à Cetinje

Un monastère à Cetinje

Les bouches de Kotor

Ce sont les seuls fjords en Europe qui ne sont pas en Norvège.

Les bouches de Kotor au Monténégro

Les bouches de Kotor au Monténégro

A l’instar de ces derniers, les bouches de Kotor présentent l’intérêt d’avoir une ambiance méditerranéenne avec de petits villages d’influence vénitienne qui ont chacun leur clocher et de petites ruelles où il fait bon de flâner.

C’est également une région très agréable pour se poser quelques jours à la plage (les alentours de Budva sont également une très bonne possibilité).

Pour l’anecdote, les bouches de Kotor ont servi de décors pour « L’homme qui voulait vivre sa vie », excellent film que je recommande.

Kotor

La cathédrale de Kotor

La cathédrale de Kotor

Il s’agit d’une petite ville avec un centre médiéval entouré de remparts et plutôt bien préservé. Bien que ce soit une petite bourgade, elle attire toujours plus de touristes de par sa proximité avec Dubrovnik et également car elle est au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO. C’est également un bel exemple architectural de l’influence vénitienne dans la région.

 

 

 

Bonus

Voici en bonus deux couchers de soleil que j’ai eu la chance de capturer durant ce voyage.

 

[travelmap-map first=1 last=6]

 

Envie de découvrir les charmes du Monténégro ? Profitez-en pour regarder les billets d’avions ainsi que l’hébergement !

 

118 Comments

  1. On ne connaît pas assez la très belle Europe de l’Est, qui fort heureusement commence à être touristique. Très bon choix !

  2. Bonjour Julien,

    je viens de découvrir ton blogue et ce billet a attiré mon attention. La Croatie et le Monténégro font partie de ma « liste » de voyages à faire. Ton billet est très intéressant et tes photos sont très belles. Une semaine pour le Monténégro, est-ce suffisant toutefois ?

    • Bonjour Mario,

      J’ai voyagé au Monténégro pendant une semaine et je pense avoir eu un correct aperçu. Evidemment 7 jours ne permettront pas de tout faire mais le Monténégro reste un petit pays donc il est réaliste de pouvoir en faire le tour pendant une semaine.
      Si tu as des demandes plus spécifiques n’hésite pas !

  3. C’est encore une belle invitation au voyage, ce billet !

  4. Dubrovnik dans des temps plus anciens était un point stratégique pour l’invasion de l’Europe de l’est d’où la présence des remparts! Endroit magnifique et à visiter, vous faites le tour des remparts en 2-3 heures!

    • D’ailleurs pour l’anecdote c’est à Dubrovnik qu’a été tourné Games of Thrones ! (une série américaine). La ville convenait de apr son ambiance médiévale méditerranéenne !

  5. Bonjour, je pars en septembre pour deux semaines au Monténégro avec à l’arrivée un passage par Dubrovnick. L’attente du départ est encore plus long après avoir vu ces très belles photos. J’aurai un question concernant la voiture. Tu es partis avec une location? As-tu traversé la frontière sans soucis ? Si tu connais une bonne agence de location, je suis preneuse. Merci d’avance.

    • Bonjour Julie,

      Personnellement j’ai utilisé une voiture de location louée à l’aéroport de Dubrovnik et déposée au même aéroport à la fin.

      Je suis passé par la Bosnie à l’aller et je suis revenu directement par la frontière Croatie-Monténégro. Je n’ai eu aucun soucis dans les 2 cas. Attention, quand tu rentres au Monténégro, allume les phares ! C’est obligatoire (ça a peut-être changé depuis) et tu peux être sur qu’il y aura les gendarmes pas très loin pour te verbaliser si tu oublies !!

      Pour l’agence de location, je ne saurais te dire, je crois que j’avais loué chez Sixt. De tte façon si tu prend une agence connue à l’aéroport de Dubrovnik il n’y aura aucun souci.

      Amuse toi bien, tu vas passer 2 merveilleuses semaines 🙂

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