Récits de voyages autour du monde et réflexions...

Mon séjour en Inde par Mario : partie 1

Mon séjour en Inde par Mario : partie 1

S’il y a bien un pays qui ne laisse nul voyageur indifférent que ce soit en bien ou en mal c’est incontestablement l’Inde. Je vous propose de partir à la découverte de ce fabuleux pays en suivant les traces de Mario qui écrit un article invité. Mario tient un blog : Bon Voyage où il raconte ses voyages. J’y suis tombé par hasard un jour et j’ai beaucoup aimé son style, je vous conseille d’y faire un tour !

 

 

L’Inde est un pays fascinant que bien des voyageurs rêvent un jour ou l’autre de découvrir. Pour certains, l’Inde est associée aux maharajas, aux contes des Mille et Une Nuits et au Taj Mahal. Pour d’autres, l’Inde est synonyme de misère et de pauvreté suite aux images de Mère Teresa de Calcutta ou plus récemment du film Slumdog Millionaire. Mais l’Inde ne se résume pas qu’à ces simples images, bien au contraire. J’ai pu constater l’incroyable richesse et l’étonnante diversité de ce pays qui possède 5000 ans d’histoire lors de mon voyage dans le nord de l’Inde en février 2010.

La grande décision

Je n’avais jamais eu envie d’aller en Inde jusqu’à il y a trois ans environ. Puis j’ai longtemps hésité. Car malgré que j’avais déjà pas mal voyagé aux quatre coins du monde, j’avais quand même un peu peur d’aller en Inde… peur que ce soit trop difficile (entre autres sur le plan psychologique). Plus tard, j’ai lu quelque part que de prendre la décision d’y aller ou pas représente une étape cruciale lorsqu’on songe à entreprendre un voyage en Inde. Finalement, après plusieurs mois d’hésitation, je me suis dit que c’était maintenant ou jamais. Et je suis parti en Inde avec mon copain.

Voyage en Inde, Udaipur, Jodhpur

Coucher de soleil à Udaipur

 

Delhi l’ancienne

Comme cela est souvent le cas, notre vol atterrit en début de nuit. Notre aventure débute donc véritablement le lendemain matin. Nous commençons par explorer les rues poussiéreuses du quartier routard de Pahar Ganj, où se situe notre hôtel. Je suis vite désorienté. Moi qui ai habituellement le sens de l’orientation, je suis complètement perdu ! Il y a du monde partout. J’ai l’impression que des centaines de regards interrogateurs se posent sur nous à chaque coin de rue. Difficile de passer incognito en Inde, surtout moi qui ai les cheveux blonds et le teint pâle. Difficile de se balader sans que quelqu’un nous interpelle pour différentes raisons. D’ailleurs, je ne sais plus combien de fois au cours de ce voyage on m’a demandé « Where are your from, sir ? » ou « Where are you going, sir ? »

Difficile aussi de se déplacer à pied à cause de la chaleur, de la poussière, des obstacles, de la foule et de la circulation (on s’est retrouvés pris dans un embouteillage pendant quelques secondes alors qu’on tentait de traverser la rue, coincés entre voitures, rickshaws et vélos, et pris d’un fou rire incontrôlable). C’est le chaos un peu partout. Ici, tout est différent. Rien n’est reconnaissable. Et puis il y a les vaches. En Inde, elles sont sacrées et on en voit partout (sans farce, j’en ai même vu une à l’intérieur d’un café à Varanasi). Personne ne les dérange, même si elles se trouvent en plein milieu de la chaussée. Et puis il y a tous ces déchets et ces excréments un peu partout. Bienvenus en Inde ! Bonjour le dépaysement et le choc culturel !

Decouverte de l'Inde, Delhi, Calcutta, Bombay

Une scène de rue du quartier Pahar Ganj à Delhi

Tout ça est vite oublié avec mon premier thali (un repas indien composé de plusieurs plats allant de l’entrée au dessert, servis dans des petits contenants en métal qui sont disposés sur un grand plateau en métal). C’est délicieux et c’est le début d’une belle aventure gastronomique avec la cuisine indienne !

Des monuments majestueux furent construits dans le nord de l’Inde sous l’empire moghol (1526-1857), et Delhi ne fait pas exception. La Tombe de Humayun (qui fut le 2e empereur moghol) est un gigantesque et magnifique mausolée de grès rouge et de marbre blanc couronné d’un dôme. On pense qu’elle servit de modèle pour le Taj Mahal à Agra. Entourée de jardins, c’est un lieu paisible que j’ai beaucoup apprécié. Le Fort Rouge est une immense forteresse érigée par l’empereur moghol Shah Jahan (le même qui fit construire le Taj Mahal à Agra). Son nom provient du grès rouge utilisé pour sa construction. À voir aussi : le labyrinthe de ruelles de Old Delhi, le bazar de Chandni Chowk, la Grande Mosquée, les grandes artères de New Delhi, la Porte de l’Inde (un monument aux soldats indiens morts au combat), Connaught Place (le centre commercial et moderne de New Delhi avec ses boutiques de luxe) et bien d’autres choses.

  • À Delhi comme ailleurs en Inde, que vous arriviez en avion, en train ou en bus, demandez à votre hôtel ou votre guesthouse qu’on vienne vous chercher. C’est une pratique courante qui vous évitera bien des soucis.
  • Pour visiter Delhi autrement, la compagnie Delhi by Cycle offre des tours guidés à vélo. J’ai découvert ceci après mon retour de voyage, mais c’est définitivement quelque chose que j’aurais bien aimé faire.
Un enfant croqué sur le vif`à Jaipur

Un enfant croqué sur le vif`à Jaipur

 

Varanasi sur les rives du Gange…

Notre voyage en train de nuit jusqu’à Varanasi fut agréable. La 1re classe, identifiée par le code AC1 et comparable à la 2e classe en Europe, permet d’avoir un compartiment fermé de deux ou quatre couchettes que l’on peut verrouiller (les vols sont fréquents). Ce fut merveilleux de voir le lever du soleil sur la campagne encore enveloppée de brouillard. C’est à ce moment que j’ai remarqué qu’il y avait beaucoup de gens accroupis ici et là dans les champs. Cela m’a d’abord intrigué, puis j’ai compris… c’était l’heure où les gens faisaient leurs besoins ! Varanasi fut l’étape la plus dépaysante de mon voyage en Inde. Une des plus vieilles villes du monde mais surtout un endroit hors de l’ordinaire qui me donnait souvent l’impression que j’étais au Moyen-Âge. De nombreux touristes ne viennent pas jusqu’ici (ce qui est dommage), la plupart se concentrant sur le Triangle (Delhi, Agra et Jaipur). En revanche, trois à quatre millions de pèlerins indiens affluent chaque année dans la ville sainte de l’hindouisme pour se purifier dans le fleuve sacré du Gange ou pour y mourir (un souhait pour bien des Indiens).

Inde Benares Varanasi Gange

Pèlerins dans le Gange à Varanasi

Le labyrinthe de rues extrêmement étroites de la vieille ville est dépaysant, mais le spectacle qui se déroule aux abords du Gange et sur les ghâts (marches en ciment qui descendent dans le Gange) l’est encore plus. C’est ici que les scènes quotidiennes sont les plus saisissantes (et parfois troublantes). Les occasions de prendre de belles photos sont nombreuses.

Tout au long de la journée, des centaines voire des milliers de gens se rassemblent ici. Sur les ghâts et dans le Gange jusqu’à la taille, certains prient, font leurs ablutions ou se lavent. D’autres y lavent le linge à coup de battements sur des pierres plates, puis l’étendent à sécher sur le sol ou sur des cordes à linge improvisées. Des pèlerins se promènent sur le Gange, entassés à plus de cinquante dans de grandes embarcations.

Des crémations ont lieu nuit et jour sans arrêt sur des bûchers en plein air. Tout autour, des cordes de bois s’entassent dans les ruelles où les bâtiments sont noircis par la fumée. Aussi morbide que cela peut sembler, j’ai pu observer les rituels entourant l’arrivée des corps étendus sur des brancards, les bûchers se consommer et les chiens se disputer les restes parmi les cendres encore fumantes. Enfin au coucher du soleil, des brahmanes célèbrent la Puja dans une sorte de représentation théâtrale, face au Gange, accompagnés de chants et de dizaines de cloches que l’on sonne frénétiquement. Varanasi fut donc une expérience riche en couleurs et en émotions.

Pour la petite anecdote, mon copain et moi avions peine à imaginer les ruelles pleines de poussière et d’excréments après une forte pluie (même les feuilles des arbres étaient brunes tellement il y avait de la poussière). Or, une nuit il y a eu un gros orage. Et comme de fait, le lendemain, les ruelles de la vieille ville étaient couvertes d’une « sorte de boue ». Je me souviens encore que mes tongs collaient à la rue à chaque pas…

  • Ne pas hésiter à louer les services d’un batelier pour effectuer un tour en bateau sur le Gange.
  • Pour pleinement profiter de l’ambiance, prenez un hôtel ou un guesthouse situé sur le bord du Gange.

 

La suite dans le prochain article. Rendez-vous dans plusieurs jours !

 

140 Comments

  1. Superbe première partie d’article. J’aimerai beaucoup visiter l’Inde, et ces informations me seront précieuses. Les photos sont vraiment magnifiques, j’attends la suite avec impatience !

    • Merci beaucoup Marion pour ces compliments. Tant mieux si mon article te plaît et peut t’apporter des informations utiles. Je te souhaite un jour aussi de visiter ce pays magnifique et fascinant.

  2. Très belle article merci pour ces informations. J’aimerai beaucoup visiter l’Inde.
    merci pour ces magnifiques photos

    • Merci Sandra ! Je suis content de voir que tu apprécies. Je te souhaite d’y aller un jour également. C’est vraiment un pays à part qu’on n’oublie pas.

    • Les photos sont d’une très grande qualité. Merci pour cette visite en ligne.

  3. Merci pour l’article Mario, je ne connaissais pas ton site je vais y jeter un coup d’œil!

    • Merci Tanned@travailler et voyager ! Il faut remercier Julien aussi d’avoir bien voulu me faire connaître davantage.

    • Rien que pour le Taj Mahal, ce pays vaut le détour. Mais le reste, moins connu, est aussi mystérieux que captivant.

  4. Salut Mario, Salut Julien,
    J’ai fait 6 semaines en Inde et tout comme Mario, j’ai eu un peu le même choc des cultures les premiers temps mais c’est vite parti. Par contre je n’ai pas vraiment aimé visiter les villes, tant de foule je ne me sentais vraiment pas à l’aise, alors j’ai passé la plupart de mon temps dans des petits villages qui étaient surtout au bord de la mer au Kerala, vraiment superbe cet Etat.

    • Salut,

      six semaines en Inde… wow ! Je crois que c’est l’idéal pour vraiment apprécier et prendre le pouls du pays.

      Oui, c’est vrai que certains peuvent trouver cela difficile de visiter les villes. Déjà, Udaipur était beaucoup mieux (ce sera abordé dans la seconde partie). D’ailleurs, le Rajasthan compte plusieurs petites villes et villages très agréables. C’est un très bel état que j’aimerais visiter plus en profondeur une prochaine fois.

      Le Kerala… on en parle beaucoup en bien… j’y songe pour un futur voyage en Inde. Ne te gênes pas si tu as des conseils à me donner sur cet état… ça m’intéresse !

  5. C’est un pays que je visiterais sûrement un jour, mais pour l’instant, je ne me sens pas prête… ce doit être un tel choc !

    • Le choc culturel est différent d’une personne à l’autre. Et puis on ne peut jamais être tout à fait prêt pour une telle expérience. Dans mon cas, ce fut moins pire que j’avais imaginé. Aujourd’hui, je suis fier de pouvoir dire que j’ai été en Inde et que je veux y retourner…

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  6. Fascinant ! Pour moi l’inde est un autre monde, une inépuisable culture à découvrir et à redécouvrir.
    j’aimerai y passer un mois. Plus la période est longue, plus on assimile et on comprend mieux le mode de vie.

  7. L’inde, pays tant fascinant pour un bon nombre de voyageurs ne m’attire pas vraiment pour l’instant. La différence flagrante de richesse n’est elle pas choquante? Voir la richesse à coté d’une telle misère ….

  8. L’Inde est un pays qu’il faut absolument découvrir. Je ne pense pas que le choc culturel est un aussi gros problème.

  9. Je tombe par hasard sur ton site en localisant l’endroit de notre point de chute à notre arrivée à Delhi à la fin décembre. Cette article me met dans l’ambiance. Nous voyageons avec nos garçon de 11 et 15 ans. Le choc culturel sera brusque. Heureusement nous avons d’autres cultures à notre actif…bonne article.

  10. Contrairement à ce que l’on peut croire en voyant les dernières actualités au sujet de cette destination (problèmes de viol), l’Inde reste une destination sublime pour les touristes

  11. Bonjour,
    J’ai toujours rêvé d’aller en Inde, et maintenant que ça concrétise, je commence à stresser…Pourtant je vais exprès dans le Kerala pour pas me mettre la pression. Comment se fait-il qu’il y ait autant de peurs comme ça liées à ce pays ? J’ai déjà pas mal voyagé mais rien n’y fait…c’est étonnant ! Comment me rassurer pour ne pas passer à côté de cette expérience ?

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  13. Vraiment très fascinant ce pays! Pour moi, réaliser un voyage en Inde est un rêve :une culture à découvrir et à vivre surtout.
    j’aimerai y passer un ans, je pense que plus le séjours long, plus on approche le mode de vie indien.

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