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Amboseli : un parc avec vue sur le Kilimandjaro

Amboseli : un parc avec vue sur le Kilimandjaro

Je ne pouvais décemment pas repartir du Kenya sans avoir au moins entrevu le Kilimandjaro, le plus haut volcan et sommet du continent africain juste devant le Mont Kenya. De plus, le temps presse car en interrogeant des kényans j’ai cru comprendre qu’il n’y a quasiment plus de glaces visibles depuis le bas en saison chaude. Par chance, j’y étais durant la saison froide donc je pouvais (et à raison comme vous le verrez) espérer voir le Kilimandjaro drapé de ses « neiges éternelles ».

 

 

Amboseli est un parc envahi par les éléphants

Amboseli est un parc du Kenya et qui est frontalier à la Tanzanie. Il est situé juste en face du Kilimandjaro. Son intérêt premier est donc d’offrir une très belle vue du Kili (son petit surnom pour les intimes) à partir d’un parc animalier. D’ailleurs ce parc accueille beaucoup d’éléphants, tellement que la végétation du parc en fait les frais et cela risque de devenir un sérieux problème dans les années à venir. Un éléphant mange en moyenne 200kg de végétation par jour et sachant qu’il me semble qu’il y a plus de 400 éléphants dans le parc je vous laisse faire les calculs !

Un des nombreux groupes d'éléphants

Un des nombreux groupes d'éléphants

En saison sèche, il existe deux types de végétation dans le parc : la savane qui est assez aride et où il n’y a plus beaucoup d’herbe et les marais qui sont présents tout du long de l’année. Cela est du à la présence du volcan qui alimente les marais via des nappes souterraines.  Durant les sécheresses les animaux sont tous concentrés dans les marais car c’est là que se trouve la nourriture, il est même possible de voir des buffles immergés jusqu’à la tête dans l’eau pour brouter les algues.

Des buffles immergés

Des buffles immergés

Les nappes phréatiques ont également entraîné la création d’un lac sur lequel on peut trouver « l’île aux hippopotames » où les animaux du même nom font souvent la sieste.

L'île aux hippopotames à Amboseli

L'île aux hippopotames

Un troupeau de voiture en migration

Un troupeau de voiture en migration

Ce parc n’accueille pas de rhinocéros qui se font au demeurant de plus en plus rares sur le continent africain à cause du braconnage intensif pour ses cornes qui ont soi-disant des vertus aphrodisiaques alors que des chercheurs ont démontré qu’il s’agit de fibres capillaires très serrées. Sinon le reste de la faune est relativement bien représentée avec une majorité d’éléphants. Toutefois, pour vraiment voir les grands prédateurs (lions, guépards, léopards) il vaut mieux aller au Massaï Mara par exemple, l’intérêt premier du parc Amboseli est sa vue sur le Kilimandjaro.

 

Ceci n'est pas un lion

Ceci n'est pas un lion

 

Zèbre noir à rayures blanches ou zèbre blanc à rayures noires ?

Zèbre noir à rayures blanches ou zèbre blanc à rayures noires ?

 

Une discussion amicale entre gnous

Une discussion amicale entre gnous

 

Le Kilimandjaro est timide et ne laisse pas facilement voir…

Il ne reste vraiment presque plus de glace sur le Mont Kilimandjaro et quasiment plus du tout en saison chaude. On parle de neiges éternelles mais le terme de glace est plus exact. Il ne neige pas sur le Kilimandjaro, la glace se forme avec la cristallisation par le froid de l’eau qui s’évapore.

Vous noterez que le reliquat de glaces que l’on peut admirer n’a rien à voir avec le Kilimandjaro des cartes postales…

Le Kilimandjaro et ses glaces éternelles

Le Kilimandjaro et ses glaces éternelles

Il n’est pas forcément possible d’observer le Kilimandjaro du premier coup. Par exemple, un groupe de chinois a passé trois nuits avant d’avoir l’opportunité d’observer le Kilimandjaro sans être gêné par les nuages. Il vaut donc mieux passer au moins une nuit dans le parc afin de maximiser les chances.

Comme beaucoup d’autres parcs, le prix d’entrée est très cher, 75$ par personne et par jour. Il s’agit de frais incompressibles quoi qu’il arrive si on veut entrer dans le parc. Après pour dormir, il n’y a pas 36 solutions, soit on dort à l’intérieur du parc et il faut sortir le porte-monnaie (quoique il est également possible de camper dans certains endroits sans trop de dangers, les lions ne sont pas agressifs en général) soit on peut dormir à l’extérieur mais avec l’inconvénient de perdre un temps fou à faire la navette chaque jour.

Concernant le logement, j’ai dormi dans une tente au sein d’un lodge. Mais attention, je ne parle pas d’une tente classique mais plutot de celle qui a un lit de camp avec moustiquaire + toilettes/douche ce qui signifie un bon confort (et des prix assez chers mais y a pas vraiment le choix…). L’emplacement du lodge était très bon : pile devant le Kilimandjaro. Se lever et prendre le petit déjeuner avec le Kili au fond est un moment assez unique…

 

Petit-déjeuner devant le Kilimandjaro

Petit-déjeuner devant le Kilimandjaro

 

Et vous, êtes vous déja allé dans ce coin de l’Afrique Australe ?

 

 

138 Comments

  1. Il est clair que ce lever face au Kili – comme tu dis – ce doit être un souvenir imperrissable…

    • Was totally stuck until I read this, now back up and runignn.

  2. Salut!

    Le parc a l’air magnifique, le prix d’entrée est un peu cher, combien coûte le camping 4 étoiles :D? Tu as eu la chance de voir le Kilimanjaro du premier coup !

    • Pour le Kilimandjaro j’ai quand même du attendre le deuxième matin mais j’ai en effet été chanceux !

      Pour le camping, j’ai du payer dans les 50$/nuit et encore, un pote local m’avait négocié le tarif résident !

  3. Très bons conseils.

    En effet le prix de $75 par jour est assez élevé.
    En terme de logement, il faut compter combien pour une nuit dans le parc?

    Merci

    • Pour les 75$, c’est un peu le même genre dans énormément de parcs, c’est dur d’y couper malheureusement. C’est pas pour rien qu’à peu près tous les gens qui font un tour du monde et qui veulent passer par l’Afrique Australe y réservent une partie importante de leur budget !

      Pour le logement, tu peux conter 50 à 300$ suivant la catégorie que tu veux prendre (mais attention, le lodge super luxueux n’a qd meme rien à voir avec un palace 4 étoiles !).
      Pour un safari disons de 3jours 2nuits avec voiture et guide tu peux compter dans les 600$/personne (prix du parc inclus, etc.). Ca reste cher mais bon…

  4. Wouah 75 dollars pour entrer dans le parc? C’est vraiment cher je trouve. Après vu la beauté des lieux on ne peut pas rater ça quand même.

    Pour répondre à ta question je dirais: zèbre blanc à rayures noires. est ce que j’ai gagné LOL

    • Comme je disais dans les réponses précédentes, oui les safaris sont assez chers mais c’est général au Kenya/Tanzanie. Pour moins cher il y a le Botswana et Namibie mais la situation change. Cela est sans doute du au fait qu’il n’y a pas 36 endroits où aller voir ces animaux donc … y a un petit monopole !

      Sinon c’est vraiment un spectacle unique en effet !

      Pour le zèbre, perdu ! Ils sont roses avec des rayures vertes.

  5. j’ai emprunté le même parcours il y a une vingtaine d’années ; on s’était levé 2 fois à 4 h du matin , sans succès , pour le voir ce Kilimandjaro … le 3ème lever de soleil , on l’a découvert … un souvenir intact … ses neiges éternelles semblent avoir bien fondues depuis …

    • Ah ça, la découverte du Kilimandjaro avec le suspense « va-t-il se montrer ?? » est clairement un moment très fort ! Je suis ravi de voir que je ne suis pas le seul à avoir ressenti cela.
      Et sinon oui les glaces ont fondu comme neige si j’ose dire !

  6. Cela doit vraiment être superbe! Faut vraiment que j’y passe!

    • Je ne peux que t’y encourager. Par contre dépêche toi, il ne reste quasiment plus de neige !

  7. Waow je vois que je ne suis pas seul à avoir eu la même réaction en lisant ton article concernant le prix élevé de l’entrée du parc!! Est-ce le prix pour tout le monde ou uniquement pour les touristes?
    Concernant les neiges du Kili, j’avais déjà vu un reportage montrant qu’elles fondaient presque à vue d’œil avec le réchauffement climatique. La photo que tu as prise montre bien à quel point cela devient catastrophique vu le peu de « glace’ qu’il reste! Tu pourras toujours dire « je les ai vues »…

    Laurent

    • Concernant le prix du parc, c’est pour les touristes. Les résidents paient nettement moins chers (c’est pareil pour les lodges).

      Au sujet des neiges, je me suis dépêché d’y aller car je passais pas loin et je me disais que d’ici quelques années ce sera un spectacle impossible à voir ! Je crois que j’ai eu raison…

  8. Bonjour Julien,

    j’aurais bien aimé aller aussi à Amboseli pour voir le Kili mais j’avais opté pour un safari d’une semaine qui faisait Masai Mara, le lac Nakuru et Samburu au nord (dans mon cas, ça remonte à 1997). J’en garde d’excellents souvenirs. Le safari que j’ai fait au Kenya est l’un de mes plus beaux voyages. Dans mon cas, c’était plutôt pour petit budget toutefois, car je dormais dans une « vrai » tente par terre. Je ne sais pas si ce genre de safari existe toujours.

    J’aimerais beaucoup faire un safari à nouveau, et cette fois-ci, je serais tenté par une « tente de luxe » comme tu l’as fait, ou par un lodge.

    Chose certaine, j’ai beaucoup aimé lire ton article et voir tes photos qui m’ont replongé dans mes souvenirs.

    • Ah Massaï Mara, j’y suis également allé, je relaterais cela dans un prochain article. Pour le lac Nakuru je voulais y aller pour les flamands roses mais pas eu le temps (ni le budget).

      Concernant le lodge, j’y suis surtout allé car un ami kenya avait pu me négocier le tarif résident qui est nettement moins cher et comme ça j’ai pu voir ce qu’il en est vraiment de ces lodges niveau confort, etc. !

      Ravi de voir que ça t’a remémoré des souvenirs agréables 🙂

  9. Bon, si je comprends bien, il faut que je me grouille les fesses et mobilise le porte-monnaie pour admirer le Kili en chapeau blanc!

    • Oui je te conseille de te dépêcher, d’ici plusieurs années il n’y en aura plus du tout je pense !

  10. Tu as la chance de l’avoir vu. Je m’y étais rendu et j’ai eu la malchance de ne voir qu’un énorme brouillard! Par contre les éléphants, impossible de les manquer. J’y avais passé la nuit en tente pour réduire le budget et même en ce levant très tôt, les nuages étaient tjs là…

    • Impossible de louper les éléphants comme tu dis, il y en a partout !

      Pas de bol pour le Kilimandjaro ! Quand je me suis levé le matin, j’avais droit à un petit coup de stress : « est-ce qu’il va être caché par les nuages » et finalement j’ai eu de la chance comme tu dis !

  11. Magnifiques photos! L’Afrique n’est pas un continent qui m’attire particulièrement, mais là avec les photos, on s’y sent. Ça donne bien le goût de faire un safari :p
    Il paraît que la Tanzanie aussi c’est bien..

  12. La photo du Kilimanjaro est superbe ! J’aimerais tellement y faire un tour dans les années à venir… que je crois que je vais le faire ! C’est un voyage pas donné, mais c’est un immanquable !

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