Récits de voyages autour du monde et réflexions...

Quelques remarques sur le Monténégro

Quelques remarques sur le Monténégro

J‘ai couché sur papier quelques remarques sur mon voyage au Monténégro ainsi que mes observations.

 

 

 

 

 

Une très bonne cuisine méditerrannéenne

Barbecue à côté de Dubrovnik

Barbecue à côté de Dubrovnik

Dans l’ensemble, ce voyage a été très agréable spécialement d’un point de vue culinaire. La cuisine locale d’influence méditerranéenne est délicieuse et en quantité amplement suffisante à tel point que des fois deux plats peuvent suffire pour trois personnes. Les poissons et fruits de mer sont frais et naturels. Les poissons du repas sur la photo de droite ont été pêchés le matin même par la personne qui nous hébergait !

 

Des joyaux architecturaux

Beaucoup de monde à Dubrovnik

D’un point de vue architectural, le Monténégro a de nombreux sites méritant le détour et notamment d’influence vénitienne à part Cetinje. Dubrovnik  (en Croatie) est une ville présentant un intérêt certain malgré une affluence de touristes très importante (peut-être du au fait que ce jour là marquait le début du festival culturel de Dubrovnik). La visite sur les remparts mérite le détour afin d’avoir une autre vue de la ville.

Le Monténégro reste avant tout un pays montagneux et cela se constate amplement au Durmitor National Park. Il ne faut pas tabler sur des « durées françaises » pour aller du point A au point B.

 

 

Un pays montagneux et pittoresque

Des habitations sur un plateau au Durmitor

Depuis son entrée dans l’UE, de nombreux projets de constructions financés par l’UE comme le poste de douanes à la frontière entre la Croatie et le Monténégro ont été initiés. Malgré son accession dans l’UE, il ne faut pas oublier que le Monténégro reste un pays pauvre, le salaire moyen mensuel est de quelques centaines d’euros et les campagnes restent enclavées avec notamment une mécanisation assez rudimentaire, les charrettes sont encore d’actualité pour transporter le foin par exemple. Comme dans la plupart des pays pauvres et peu développés, la plupart des habitants sont ruraux.

Il est possible sur la côte, aux alentours de Budva par exemple, de voir des véhicules avec des plaques américaines. Cela s’explique par le fait que de nombreux monténégrins se sont expatriés aux Etats-Unis et amènent leur voiture durant les vacances pour afficher leur réussite. La côte est d’ailleurs très touristique, l’immobilier est en plein boom avec beaucoup de nouvelles constructions ce qui ne va pas sans défigurer le paysage et faire perdre de son charme.

Une évolution du pays mitigée

Une urbanisation galopante à Budva

Une urbanisation galopante à Budva

Cette évolution du pays et notamment du bord de mer est un passage « obligé » que j’ai eu l’occasion de constater dans plusieurs pays et bien que ça soit à première vue une bonne chose pour le pays en question (augmentation des recettes touristiques, création d’emplois, etc.) je reste assez mitigé. En effet, cet argent qui va rentrer dans les caisses ne va pas toujours profiter à la population locale et les emplois créés ont souvent des conditions de travail peu enviables. De plus, cette évolution entraîne généralement un décalage entre la richesse des touristes et la « misère » ambiante et donc générer des tensions parmi les habitants locaux. Et pour finir, le boom immobilier est, en général, exploité par des promoteurs sans scrupules qui vont complètement ravager le paysage.

La solution pour moi serait une exploitation raisonnée du tourisme en prenant le temps de faire les choses quitte à avoir moins de retombées au début mais qui sera une politique bénéfique à long terme. Et vous, qu’en pensez-vous ? Utopique ou réalisable ?

115 Comments

  1. Merci de m’avoir fait voyager le temps de la lecture de ton article!
    Demain, je recommence avec un autre.

    A+

  2. Je pense que c’est tout à fait possible… dans l’absolu bien sûr. Dans les faits, c’est à voir, cela dépend de la politique du pays… ?

  3. Excellent article, ca m’a donné envie d’y aller, de preference avant de se retrouver avec un littoral completement defiguré…

    Mais c’est le meme probleme dans tous les coins touristiques je suppose. Je vais en corse depuis toute petite et en 20 ans, ca a enormement changé! Avec une enorme repercution sur la faune terrestre et sous marine 🙁

    • Salut,

      C’est clair que c’est un phénomène très loin d’être spécifique au Monténégro et je pense que ça ne va pas s’arranger !

  4. Hello,

    j’y vais en Mai prochain, inclus dans un trip de 3 semaines depuis Zagreb jusqu’à Belgrade avec en point d’orgue la Bosnie et le Monténégro.
    J’inclue Cetinje comme « point de passage » potentiel ^^.

    Rien sur les monts Lovcen ?
    Le parc Durmitor est ce qui m’intéresse le plus en tout cas, après vient les bouches de kotor et le lac skadard. Des conseils pour le skadard ?

    Sinon, t’étais tu renseigné sur le train allant de Bar à Belgrade ?

    Merci.

    • Je suis passé par le Mont Lovcen en allant de Cetinje à Kotor (je suppose que tu feras le chemin inverse). Y a le mausolée de l’ancien roi et également une très belle vue sur le Monténégro avec la route qui vient de Kotor (belle vue sur les fjords aussi !).

      Pour Cetinje, tu peux compter une journée tranquillement.

      Le lac Skadar, je te conseille l’hotel Pelican à Virpazar et également une balade sur le lac avec un bâteau (voir sur place pr les excursions).

      Le Durmitor Park, tu peux dormir à Zabljak et faire des randonnées à partir de là. Si tu as du temps et que tu es aventureux y a aussi le canyoning dans la Tara !

      Pour le train qui va de Bar à Belgrade je l’ai juste vu, je n’en sais pas plus :p

      Amuse toi bien, tu vas voir les Balkans c’est très chouette 🙂

  5. C’est toujours le même problème avec l’argent du tourisme, il ne profite qu’à un petit nombre et crée ainsi des décalages dans la population…

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